Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it's either a 3037 or a 2835. And the sticker on the box says 3037 so i beleive it.

I'd trust the description and get it at that price to be honest. With the current exchange rate i reckon you could add another grand to the price.

3037 is good for 300rwkw or a touch over.

Thats a 3037 pro s kit ,same as i had.

GT-RS kit dosent come with dump or intake pipe etc etc, they only come with oil lines and compressor elbow, that could be a 2835 turbo as i cant see the exhaust wheel to be sure, but if you order the 3037 kit they will send you a 3037 turbo ofcourse, by the way i would snapp that up asap, they are good people to deal with to even if they are a little hard to understand sometimes.

hmmm is that where you bought yours from nizmo freek??

wow in us its a fair bit..how much did u originally pay for yours...what do you think of this turbo laggy much? do you have cam gears done??

how close to max are your 555cc injectors?? at 270rwkw

its a 3037 pro s

its good for around 300rwkw with a lil lag (read acceptable amount)

a gtrs will not get you 270 unless you have cams and absolutely ring its neck... 240-260 tops is about right

555cc injectors are good for a bit over 300rwkw on pulp

a 2835 pro s will get you 270rwkw and less lag

i run a 2835 and have 265rwkw on 20psi with exhaust cam gear to aid response, without the cam gear most people see 270-280rwkw

its a great turbo for the rb25 and i would highly reccomend it

its a 3037 pro s

its good for around 300rwkw with a lil lag (read acceptable amount)

a gtrs will not get you 270 unless you have cams and absolutely ring its neck... 240-260 tops is about right

555cc injectors are good for a bit over 300rwkw on pulp

a 2835 pro s will get you 270rwkw and less lag

i run a 2835 and have 265rwkw on 20psi with exhaust cam gear to aid response, without the cam gear most people see 270-280rwkw

its a great turbo for the rb25 and i would highly reccomend it

listen to what joey is talking about .....

so with cam gear and hp fuel pump z32 afm and injectors and exhaust....it will be laggy on my r34gtt? the gtrs kit that is??

and you suggest the 2835 pro s?

less lag in that turbo?

but as u said wont get much higher then 270rwkw and thats with cam gears ?

lag factor is essentially the same on both turbo's... a gtrs may his full boost a couple of hundred rpm quicker but the 2835 is a slightly bigger unit so when you his full boost on the gtrs and the 2835 is on 95% they are about even anyway and then the 2835 has a lil more puff left.

the lag factor is VERY minimal on mine.

basically my low boost (1 bar @ actuator) is what you'll get squeezing the crap out of a gtrs, so the 2835 is a little kinder to your car, albeit not as kind to your wallet.

gtrs = 250rwkw-ish

2835 = 270rwkw-ish

better of getting a gt3076r iw and you would save a couple of thousand at least.

exactly what i was going to say, i just got mine today and going to be installing it in the next couple of weeks once i get all the oil/water lines and piping sorted :rofl:.. btw paid $2k for the 3076R EW, exhaust manifold and dump flange.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...