Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im looking for bar & plate reverse flow intercooler, does anyone know any? I've been looking around but i cant seem to find any at all. So far i only found the ARC one but its tube & fin. The ones from cooling pro its not too good from what i've heard.

Thanks for the help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247819-reverse-flow-intercooler/
Share on other sites

I think you mean return flow, why do you need bar and plate?

I have a blitz one, was one in the for sale section a few months ago at a reasonable price.

If your aiming for more than about 250rwkw the cooling pro should be alright, i think most of the drama's have been with mounting, there are threads around that show you how to fix the problem.

Hey,

How u going? I want a bar & plate because i dont want it to be damaged that easily because i have a few mates intercoolers are damaged by rocks and stuff like that. I know know tube & fin has better flow but it also can over heat as well so i prefer on getting a bar & plate. Your blitz one is it a return flow? Which type is it?

Plus the piping looks stock in the engine bay and that is what i want.

cheers.

If you want the standard looking piping in the engine bay then return flow is what you want, mine is a return flow and is a tube and fin i think, i also have a hks tube and fin that i ripped the bottom plate off on a speed hump, it did not damage any of the tubes, to get a rock to go through a tube it would have to be a good sized rock.

The Apexi "Hybrid" fmic for 180sx/rb20 is a return air feed and is half bar*plate and half tube*fin

quite a unique fmic, and good for up to 250kw Id suggest

ebay japan

post-18854-1228606494_thumb.jpg

edit: pic is the 1st go at it, now use 4ply thermalflex, better routing of pipes with lipped edge so no blow-offs, ever. :)

my tuner fixed it all up N.C. woot

what gave you the impression that tube and fin would cause overheating..

it's the other way around..

BAR and PLATE coolers don't let as much air through them to the radiator behind, which would cause over heating.

anyway, if you want a really budget one..

try mine..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Xr...ic-t240308.html

haha why do you care about stock looking intercooler piping?

if you're in a position where a cop is looking under the bonnet of your car, you're f**ked.

trust type M kits are bar and plate, and mount well onto the car.

but you don't get retarded 'return' flow piping

  mystery_kid said:
haha why do you care about stock looking intercooler piping?

if you're in a position where a cop is looking under the bonnet of your car, you're f**ked.

trust type M kits are bar and plate, and mount well onto the car.

but you don't get retarded 'return' flow piping

If you average joe plod pulls you over and cant pick the usual defects under the bonnet there is a good chance he will give up.

"retarded"?

You mean the piping that saves you from having cut a big ugly hole in your inner gaurd, the same whole that will get you a defect on a S2 33 and newer due to air bags?

try getting a rwc with a 3" hole cut in your engine bay...

ive got a trust return flow front mount.

havent seen the same kit on another car yet. looks extra stealthy coz the tanks are on the top/botton so the lines run vertically rather than horizontally so it just looks like a radiater to the untrained eye :D

i took my car for a full inspection last week to get off defect. still had the blitz front mount on it.

the guy doing the inspection said it was the neatest front mount he had seen.......

i asked him how they went with the type m types. he said if its too close to the chasis rail

there is no way they would let it get through......

  honkie said:
Hey guys,

Im looking for bar & plate reverse flow intercooler, does anyone know any? I've been looking around but i cant seem to find any at all. So far i only found the ARC one but its tube & fin. The ones from cooling pro its not too good from what i've heard.

Thanks for the help.

why? bar and plate is not as good as tube and fin.....

  mystery_kid said:
haha why do you care about stock looking intercooler piping?

if you're in a position where a cop is looking under the bonnet of your car, you're f**ked.

trust type M kits are bar and plate, and mount well onto the car.

but you don't get retarded 'return' flow piping

HAHAHAHAHAHA im a trust dealer and can tell you the TYPE M kits dont work as well as the blitz return flow LM kits, got back to back dyno tests to prove it and air intake temp logs to back it up.

  sneki81 said:
are there any front mounts that can go on s2 that you wont get defected for??

You need one of these 'Turn-flow' kits, these are basically a intercooler that use the piping to line up with stock piping route.

Do a search, been covered heaps on this topic.

ARC, Blitz, Trust, Apexi (once seen HKS core but hard to come by) and JJR all offer 'turn-flow' intercoolers (if you want local options, look into AVO).

Edited by Count Grantleyish

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...