Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Im currently tossing up if I should put a POD filter into my stag. Currently Im running the stock box with a hi-flow blitz drop in panel filter, keeping in mind the scoop is slightly cut down to allow for the FMIC piping.

The main reason Id like a pod is purely for the added induction noise, I know its a bunch of wank but hay....

The only reason I havnt purchased a Pod yet is becuase a. I dont know what one to get (want one readily available) and b. I would like to (MUST) have some form of cold air feed to it.

So those of you with pods could you please post up your setups of what pod and explain ur cold air feed, pictures would be great aswell :D! I think i rember seeing in tangles engine bay and he had something going on around his? cant remember 100% thou.

Hows this for a pod setup!:

post-a193265-stag-cruise-4.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248469-your-pod-setups/
Share on other sites

the best pod imo is the apexi because in the kit form it bolts straight on to your intake and has a bracket to hard mount it to something ( which makes it legal in good ol wa ). shure there not a good flow as the 3a but they have the funel which is ment to swirl the air for better intake... whith the pick of the pod on that stag, i wouldnt want to be driving it on a wet day. its begging to suck in some water

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/APEXi-replacement-p...%3A1|240%3A1318

link to pod that will bolt straight on to your afm.. just got to make your own braket like

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-R33-R34-GTSt...%3A1|240%3A1318

im sure you get everything in the first on except the braket which u can easily make yourself and save a heap

Edited by jippa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248469-your-pod-setups/#findComment-4311059
Share on other sites

I got rid of my pod and put a standard airbox and snorkel back with a highflow filter because I found the sucky noise tiresome. I am going to add a cold air supply to the top of the airbox.

If you really want a pod you will be sucking in hotter air unless you have a heat shield. Here is a link to the best i have seen so far:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...at-t208224.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248469-your-pod-setups/#findComment-4316100
Share on other sites

mines in the middle of production :D .. just need a lid cut out and attatched then sent for powder coating,

Robert , how's those highflow pannels work ? notice any differents in pull between pod and hi flow ?

I could say its heaps better since i put in the airbox with the Pipercross panel filter but then i would be no better than the guys who put on a pod filter and say their car goes miles faster. In truth i can't tell the difference. However SK has done the research (and written it up here somewhere) with temperature sensors in the filter area and one outside in the cold air stream and the difference can be very great.

I have no doubt that if you made up a heat shield such as the one shown in the link from my previous post and fitted a cold air supply you would have a perfectly satisfactory set up complete with sound effects ( a plus for some, a negative for others).

I am also sure that my set up with a highflow filter in the standard airbox will be just as effective but I am adding a cold air supply to the top of the airbox from behind the LH headlight and fitting an air diverter, and making a shroud to direct all the air from the LH scoop into my Trust SMIC ( which incidentally has been coping well on my track days when although the engine, tyres and brakes are all as hot as the intercooler pipes remain OK. In fact I had upped my turbo timer to 5 min on track days but I have cut it back to 2 min because i noticed that when I pulled up and felt the intercooler pipes they were OK but after 5 min idling they were really hot - absorbing the surrounding heat.

BTW my GCG turbo has got me another 35 KW from 155 AWKW @ 10psi (stock turbo) to 190 @ 14psi so i hope with a little more fiddling I will make my 200AWKW at 16psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248469-your-pod-setups/#findComment-4317170
Share on other sites

A little off topic but, I saw a red P plated (vic) the other day with a pod filter coming out the top of his bonnet.. And to top it off this was on a tf magna haha.

Back on topic, my brother and myself both use stock air boxes with high flow panel filters.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248469-your-pod-setups/#findComment-4317715
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Ive got a cold air inductiion box from sau SA member Maxx.

was for an R34 and is sheet metal etc.

uses the stock standard snorkel and has the area below from the two original intercooler pipe holes..... Im using return air feed cooler so my holes are being used but when I go to a Greddy plenum and redo the fmic I will have a hole spare and can tube in more cold air induction.

so, z32 afm sits on outside of the metal box with lid and stock snorkel feed coming in, air from underneath if you have an upgraded fmic, pod filter sits securly inside and the lid closes it all off.

no engine hay heat to speak off, although the heatsoak is quite extreme so the inner side of my CAI setup is heat-foam insulated.

pics when I get the Stag back from headwork. .... still waiting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248469-your-pod-setups/#findComment-4348694
Share on other sites

^^ relax m8 im in same boat, still duno what to do.

i looked at moding the standard box to make way for bigger snorkel (more noise n flow) but didnt work out so that ideas out the windy.

i think the pod and custom box is the only way to go 4 louder induction noise, i just dont want a big defect under my bonnet. i suppose if done neatly and slap a couple of emission stickers on it most cops would be none the wiser.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248469-your-pod-setups/#findComment-4348889
Share on other sites

Well Ive got good news and bad news.

The good news: since I'm on holiday i spent the best part of a day (some hours spent planning, drink in hand) neatly enlarging the intake to my SMIC cutting away the inside plastic on the front bar but so that it still looks much the same as the other one from a distance. Since I got a bigger Trust SMIC the old shroud was no good so I have now made up ducting whuch ensures that 99% of the air that comes through the bumper duct goes through the SMIC. Took it for a thrash and the outlet intercooler pipe was really cool to the touch. I am hopefull this will translate into more KW and better track performance and enable me to stick with the SMIC. Then I cut a hole in the end of the standard airbox lid because I am going to duct air from behind the LH headlamp into the box (to supplement the snorkel).

The bad news. The next day I picked up the airbox lid and noticed that because I did it on the bench, upside down, I had made a neat hole in the wrong end of the lid!!

Luckily i hadn't thrown away the piece I cut out so I have resealed and am now starting again on the other end!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248469-your-pod-setups/#findComment-4349334
Share on other sites

lol dont ya hate that man.

gave my brother in law my cardboard air box, for him to make out of galvanized steel. he did make the box only inside out.

since has been fixed up, but after finding a wet air filter after the car wash. that idea is down the toilet and going back with stock box k&n panel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248469-your-pod-setups/#findComment-4349506
Share on other sites

hey all well i took off my standard air box and put on a pod that i had on my ol' 31 sedan. This was so that my girlfriend could hear the blowoff sound lol

sorta got sick of it, plus everyone i know with a skyline is like " keep your stock airbox just put a high flow panel in"

so i did last week and i cant notice any difference in power, if anything it goes a bit better i would say :thumbsup:

however.......after looking at those cai kits from maxx...hrmmm makes me wonder

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248469-your-pod-setups/#findComment-4351823
Share on other sites

Well i Currently have a stock air box with a blitz hi-flow panel.

Pulling on the throttle cable with bonnet up and hand on the scoop you can feel it sucking alot of air, so much that i think it would be borderline starving itself. So I've got a blitz pod on the way but I will be putting it in some sort of enclosure with a cold air feed.

In my opinion pod in enigne bay without some sort of surround and a cold air feed = epic fail/ hot air induction *heaps cool, thumbs down haha. end rant.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248469-your-pod-setups/#findComment-4352236
Share on other sites

Well i Currently have a stock air box with a blitz hi-flow panel.

Pulling on the throttle cable with bonnet up and hand on the scoop you can feel it sucking alot of air, so much that i think it would be borderline starving itself. So I've got a blitz pod on the way but I will be putting it in some sort of enclosure with a cold air feed.

In my opinion pod in enigne bay without some sort of surround and a cold air feed = epic fail/ hot air induction *heaps cool, thumbs down haha. end rant.

Personally i don't drive with my hand over the air intake so no problem. Also if you stick your hand out the window at anything over about 60 k you will find a fairly good airstream which Nissan has designed a snorkel to divert to your airbox. Just the same I am getting a second feed of cold air from behind the LH headlight into the top of the airbox and an air deflector (if it ever arrives from Aus) will help as well.

[slightly off topic] Didn't finish my extra cold air supply today because I managed to get a cheap timing light and so installed my adjustable exhaust cam gear instead - easy job if you're not doing the cambelt as well. Set it at 4deg retarded and now just have to save up for a top class tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248469-your-pod-setups/#findComment-4353868
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...