Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A bloke told me that there is a different level of complaince if you import a car yourself to if an importer imports one and that i wouldn't be able to register a car thats been imported privatly?

or once its complied thats it? the car im talking about is already registered in a different state

sorry if i missed this in the search

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249153-different-levels-of-compliance/
Share on other sites

the Bloke must have been talking about a persoanl import these cars are owned by someone more than 12months overseas and are allowed in under the personal import Scheme not RAWS so the only go thru an Engineers certification and mod plated to be allowed to register this differs for all states . this would mean if you moved interstate it may need to be rechecked and signed off by an engineer from that state.

In the Case your question is asking if you are a private person importing or a dealer imports a vehicle unders the Raws system they are all complied axactly to a national standard set by raws and would be able to register in any state.

So really you need to find out if the car was a personal import or a Raws complied car. for your own information Personal imports have a yellow type Id plaque stating the vin and personal import. for old Raws complied cars they are green ID plate and in the last time raws went crazy they changed it to purple colour with all details of raws compliance workshops name and Vin # etc ..

ask the seller for a photo of the import plate it should clearly state what type of import it is.

Hope this helps

Regards, Phil

Ahh that makes sense now thanks mate! im pretty sure he didn't own it for 12 months over there he just imported it, i'll get a photo of the import plate but i can see a purple plate in the engine bay pic i have, can't read any numbers though

thanks for your help

edit so it doesnt matter what the numbers are on the purple plate as long as its purple? see attached link for pic

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/9347/dscengineax1.jpg

Edited by byebye

to be honest I would ring the relevant office in your state and state your case.

I own a personal import that I bought from interstate and for me (qld) it was a case of going to QT and registering it.

You don't need SEVS compliance, that personal import compliance plate is a federal scheme, so it's already qualified to be in the country.

Here in VIC, you'd need an engineer's certificate, I think NSW is the same. SA you just take it to regency I believe.

Anyways, like Chris said, check with your local state road agency to find out what you need to register a personal import (yellow plate).

cheers,

David @ Carizma

So i would have to get it complied to change states
  • 1 month later...

In relation to imports, I had a look at this site:

http://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan...?ps=25&so=2,

It provides a shipping estimator and Freight courier. I looked at the Skylines, Wrx and Evo's which are resonably priced.

I have no experience in this field and would like to know how much hoops do i have to jump to get this vehicle on the road in NSW ie RTA. Would i need engineers certificates or what ever cerificates ??????.

Some nice Imports in Japan, what are your thoughts.

Do a search on tradecarview and you'll find out what the general consensus is >_<

Aside from just being a place were dealers list their cars it is also were lazy arse people cut and paste images from and state it is some ones stock that supplies to them but half the time it is just some cheap piece of shit sitting in a dealers yard somewhere in Japan.

what are the requirements for xenon headlights and front windscreen replacement in regards to compliance?

i looked at a car from a backyard dealer who couldn't speak English very well and i'm sure he said that he doesn't bother removing the xenons or replacing the windscreen (although he said he was meant to) for compliance.

any help appreciated.

The headlights are supposed to be modified to accept H1 globes.

Windshield is usual part no. M1G4 for the 34 coupes, there could be others that pass the ADR as well, haven't seen the evidence recently.

Both headlights and windscreen have to be roadworthy as well of course, which is where you're more likely to run into problems rather than with the compliance of them.

David @ Carizma

what are the requirements for xenon headlights and front windscreen replacement in regards to compliance?

i looked at a car from a backyard dealer who couldn't speak English very well and i'm sure he said that he doesn't bother removing the xenons or replacing the windscreen (although he said he was meant to) for compliance.

any help appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...