Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How ya going,

I was just wondering if there was many big single turbo'd rb's around adelaide?? more so rb26's but rb20 and 25 could help

i was looking into this as an option for my car and was wanting to talk to someone/s that has gone thro it!

cheers

Edited by Turbz_13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249258-big-singlehi-mount-turbos-on-rbs/
Share on other sites

maybe for peoples peice of mind if you have a set up like this pm me rather than sharing with the entire net! will chat in private rather than putting it all out there.

i know apparently the police scan the forums...

pm me

High mounts are illegal here right?

There's a wine red R33 on here for sale - with a high mount.

Can it be legal if it is engineered or something?

Sorry about the noobness, gotta learn...

Edited by MickP
How ya going,

I was just wondering if there was many big single turbo'd rb's around adelaide?? more so rb26's but rb20 and 25 could help

i was looking into this as an option for my car and was wanting to talk to someone/s that has gone thro it!

cheers

been there done that

OVER IT!!!!!!!!

High mounts are illegal here right?

There's a wine red R33 on here for sale - with a high mount.

Can it be legal if it is engineered or something?

Sorry about the noobness, gotta learn...

whos car is that 4 sale, where does it say it?????????

Ya high mounts are illegal... just like low-mount non-stock turbo's are. It affects emissions.

But if it's a drag car... who cares?

I don't know any that are getting around Adelaide... but there's plenty of them interstate! No one bothers here due to no drag strip and most high mount setups are simply too laggy for the street (eg. T04z's) unless you don't mind having the turbo hit boost at 5000rpm.

youll have to go interstate for that, try the forced induction section. what exactly are you using it for, you would probably require different setups for all out drag vs all out track.

You need to speak to the right people Turbz 13

We have between ourselves and our immediate customers 1 x Twin Trust T67 GTR, 1 x Twin Trust TD06 GTR, 1 x Garrett TO4Z GTR, 1 x HKS T51 GTR, and the list goes on....and on. There are plenty out there, but you more than likely wont find them playing "Look at me!" on forums :rofl:

Pick a professional GTR proven workshop with real runs on the board, ensure you have an adequate budget, and go speak to them :laugh:

Edited by Martin Donnon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...