Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ive tuned your car!!.. Twice! Stop your whinging!

& No can do Titan.. you got stock turbo.. i am guessing it would break on your first anti lag.

ignore that bit i want the wanky idle :) the antilag would have an arming threshold of 8000rpm and 100% throttle. but you have to have it on for the ilde so running 0 degrees ignition retard with an arming rpm that i wont reach will mean it never triggers and my exhaust wheel remains out of my cat.

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I know you have, and it's still alive! :banana:

It would be in skyline heaven if I tuned it :)

Guilt-toy is a gun tuner...im going to get him to look at my 13th century medieval harp as well.

im going to be installing my vipec tonight so i can get it in before my engine is started. ive got a few questions.

i want to hook up my wideband to it, where do i get the expansion loom from? how much are they?

i read in the vipec manual that you had to use a 1mm restrictor for the map sensor, has anyone done this? i was doing this with my greddy 3bar map sensor to keep the boost readings steady and it worked really well (except i had to use a 0.3mm restrictor).

which wires does the IAT sensor connect to?

IAT has to be wired in yourself to any of the AN Temp inputs (mine is on temp3 (expansion connector)), you can wire your wideband up through the NB oxy wires (AN Volt 6).

My map line doesn't have any restrictors in it.

The Vipec dealer can supply the expansion loom. Alternatively you can solder direct to the board (I did for my boost switch)

i wouldnt solder onto the board, re-sale of it would be less if it was tampered with i think. is there a PC part out there that will work for now?

I don't plan on selling it, so resale is not a problem...and it can be removed in no time at all :happy:

I looked for a suitable connector at Jaycar, but couldn't find one. The pin spacing is very small.

  • 3 weeks later...
Sounds great. I have an overboost problem at present and wouldnt mind checking out whether its teh boost controller thats causing the problems without buying an expensive new one. Solinoids are 100NZD (not sure about AUD) if you want a new one also.

Look forward to hearing how it goes mate.

Got the stock r33 RB25DET boost solinoid working with the Vi-Pec on the weekend. It works very good. Honestly if you spent a little extra time with the boost controller settings you could get it to have a very very flat boost curve. Mine spikes a little but i was happy with the way it spiked.

You need to program the duty cycle per load point. So if it spikes you add duty number, if boost is too low you you remove the number. Took me AGES to work it out. but once i got it worked out I got decent boost pressure AND....

502.JPG

I did get 511rwhp with e85 but it was running very very lean up top because i was out of injectors. So yeah very happy with my flat power curve from 135 to 180 all the way it has 2hp more or less then 500 :thumbsup: ! Just how i like it. Useable power revs.

Changed back to pump

The more I use my Vi-Pec the better i am getting with it, Twoogle was a breeze to tune as well.

So yeah another win for this great ecu. Cost me 0$ for electronic boost controll and its only a 2 port solinoid!!

GT, after all ur playing around.. how long do u think it will take a tunner to go from standard ecu to a full tune that includes all the cool stuff the vipec has to offer, such as setting up anti lag launch control flat shift cycle idle. and getting the boost control fiarly dialled in??

GT, after all ur playing around.. how long do u think it will take a tunner to go from standard ecu to a full tune that includes all the cool stuff the vipec has to offer, such as setting up anti lag launch control flat shift cycle idle. and getting the boost control fiarly dialled in??

there is alot of setup there mate, like

- Install ECU and run map sensor

- Install air temp sensor in pipe and run wires

- install digital input to clutch switch and run wires

- Set timing on engine

- Map ecu for cruise and boost...

Thats a big mission.. I would think it could take 4 hours totally completed by a Vi-Pec experienced tuner. He would have to be good at what he does and know how to do it and has done it with this ecu a few times.

I did notice with pauls car that when i was setting up and getting ready to tune I was flying through the setup and getting all configured and working ready to tune in no time at all.

So yeah 4 to 5 hours if nothing else goes wrong - Drive in - Drive out deal.

I would love to see someone setup a Power FC and tune it in that time, setup a aftermarket boost controller and setup a aftermarket launch interface and then your still missing anti lag and PROPER flat shift with time delay and timing retard.

So yeah this ecu is friggin awesome now, once its actually fully finished and developed properly (Ray hall is continually working on improving it and adding features) it will be a pretty damn good first choice ecu for all applications.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...