Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtr Factory Remote Central Locking Woes

aphid

By aphid,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

aphid Proficient

aphid

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys,

As the topic suggests I'm having a few dramas with the factory cental locking system in my 1999 R34 GTR. I'm currently installing a new alarm into the GTR as the old alarm was an extremely dodgy install. The previous install used an aftermarket solenoid tek screwed into the door, however I'm 99% sure the existing box installed in the door hooked upto the locking system not only acts as the sensor to activate the solenoid on the passengers door but also as a solenoid for the remote central locking (I only got one factory GTR key with the car which I'm assuming is a spare as it doesn't have any remote central locking buttons on it, but being a GTR you'd assume it did infact come from the factory with remote central locking).

I can find the Lock and Unlock wires that trigger the passenger door (from the low current side of the relay) however I'm at a loss in where to find these wires for the drivers side.

I've looked through a few circuit diagrams I could dig up on the internet and I now think the solenoid in the drivers door is powered from the factory immobiliser box.

I have the R34 service manual translated into english I dug up on the internet but it's only got the GT-T immobiliser pinouts in it :laugh: The GTR appears to have a different box..

Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give,

Marcus

:down:

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

GTT & GTR run the same body harness :laugh:

there are 2 actuators in the doors anyway as the std remote entry works. as fo doing it and grabbing the triggers - got a meter and electronics knowledge? you will need to find,split and modify the remote entry unit.

aphid Proficient

aphid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it's a little more confusing than that.. the GTR is setup differently to the GTT.

there are 3 separate boxes controlling the remote central locking & immobiliser

the first is the actual immobiliser box itself, the second is the relay box for the passengers side of the central locking inside the car, the third looks like a relay for something else (thought it might be for the drivers door but it's only got 3 wires)

this second box is connected to a sensor inside the solenoid box in the drivers door that is triggered when the drivers door is unlocked or locked, then triggers the solenoid in the passengers door accordingly.

the triggers for the solenoid inside the drivers door are attached to something else, and according to the service manual they're attached through the dash cluster (about 60 wires) into a "remote central locking C/U". the "remote central locking C/U" box shown in the manual is the one that is in a GT-T, and the GT-R is physically a different shape to what is shown in the manual and the plug has a vastly different pin configuration (the GTR has an immobiliser box instead).

it would be alot easier if i had a remote that would work with the stock central locking system, as then i'd be able to measure voltage on the different wires to determine which ones were the triggers.

guess the next step is really to measure the impedance across the solenoid itself then start looking for similar impedance across random pins on the immobiliser box and earth or start hacking apart the loom and tracing :laugh:

i was really hoping that somebody had the pinouts for the GT-R immobiliser box stashed somewhere but ah well :down:

anyway sorry for the rant,

merry christmas all!!

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

white box above left knee - split it and find the two doides side by side on the board . pulse with a test light. solder wires to those points and configure the alarm as neg trigger. no need to strip the harness.

apart from the NATS 2.8 unit its wired the same (to me anyway.)as a 34 GTT.

  • Thanks 1
  • 3 years later...
lordwolfblade Newbie

lordwolfblade

Posted
Posted

I've got an after market keyless entry and immobiliser but cant seem to hook up the doors properly can you help me out with a wiring diagram or give me an idea on where the central locking module is. I only need to hook up two wires.

  • 4 years later...
  • 7 months later...
etang789 Community Regular

etang789

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 12/25/2008 at 4:29 AM, Chris Rogers said:

white box above left knee - split it and find the two doides side by side on the board . pulse with a test light. solder wires to those points and configure the alarm as neg trigger. no need to strip the harness.

apart from the NATS 2.8 unit its wired the same (to me anyway.)as a 34 GTT.

Not sure if I got them correctly, here is what I have done according to here, 

IMG_0803.JPG

IMG_0801.JPG

Edited by etang789

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...