Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, on a cold start i get a grinding noise for 1-2 seconds max after the car first turns over.

engine is 25det

it tends not to happen when the car is warm.

2 area's i was thinking are starter motor (although why would this be diferent when warm) and oil viscosity

i use motul turbolight 10/40 as do MILLIONS of other on here...

any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250435-ugly-ass-noise-on-cold-startup/
Share on other sites

Could be a worn bearing, start it cold with a mate in front or vice versa so you can try and pin point it. Lots of ancillary devices can have bearing issues (air con, power steer pump, alternator)

If you can be more specific that would help.

It will change with temp because friction coefficients are effected by temperature. Hold/Cold causes things to expand and contract etc.

Edited by ActionDan

yeah power steering pump is on the way out... you can hear it grind a tiny bit with a stethoscope on idle.

exhaust is bot touching anything.... i've been over that with a fine tooth comb as a previous (read NON japanese) exhaust did that and caused me all sorts of headf**ks.

see this was my idea... DGAF if its just the starter motor gettin noisy... i'd rather pay for go fast mods...

it never happened till i got remote start...

remote start (viper alarm) keeps cranking for a predesignated time, and with the pfc the time the car takes to start could be anything :D

so to use remote start (which i never do now) it grinds the shit out of it for like half a second most times

There are a few threads on this one, yes it sounds like the starter gear is not returning quickly as it should.

Odds are if you remove it it will have 10+yrs of clutch dust, road grime and oil on it that is slowing/stopping it from returning correctly.

Remove-clean-replace. Unless it's chewed the starter gear or flywheel badly you should be ok.

starter motors have a overrun clutch, If your remote start has been over cranking, the sprag clutch maybe worn/damaged, when you start normally the engine over speeds the starter motor, you release key, usually the sprag clutch slips and the gear can retract. cos your clutch is damaged it maybe holding the gear on a little more

  • 5 months later...

sorry to bring up an oldish thread...but mine has started to do the exact same thing only few days ago....and only does it durin cold starts for 1 or 2 seconds after the engine has started

the noise is comin from the starter motor area so im guessin the starter gear is doin sumfin wrong

how can this be fixed? would the starter have to pulled out?

its totally the starter moter... just cant release quick enough... problem is same same now.... no worse... i'm not gonna bother about it. everything else in the car works fine :P

+1 on starter motor.

mines doin it too.

Dam 33 starters.

Mine did it a while ago, about 2 yrs to be precise.

Took it out, greased it up, was dry as a bone.

hooked it up to 12v battery, let it spin a couple of times till the noise went. Sweet as.

But its startin to do it again, might just replace it this time round.

RJ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...