Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I though it was about time i put something up here about my car.

It started out as a standard GTS4 with only a cat back zorst imported a few month before i brought it in early 2005. first mods were front mount and a set of chrome 18's

100_0233.jpg

I drove around with the car like this for a year or so with no other major mods just a dump pipe, front pipe and a bleed valve pushing out about 160rwkw.

In early 2007 i noticed that my car started to idle lumpy, did a comp test on the motor and found that i had nothing in piston 6. So i decided to go all out and chuck in a Rb26. this is the piston from the rb20

piston.jpg

I managed to find a R33 rb26 with 80,000k's with gearbox from Japanese motorsport, i also got some coilovers, strut braces, stainless front pipes and 32 gtr brakes. I also got a Power-FC D-Jectro all installed by Tilbrook Auto & Dyno, the car was tuned by Martin Donnon and made 230rwkw.

carshow2.jpg

Not long after that i got my new plates and earlyer this year i brought a set of 18x8 1/2" Drift teks.

skylineatAJD2.jpg

I have now upgraded to R34 GTR rims painted the same gold as the Drift teks and i also brought a GTR interior.

portadelaide.jpg

I have now also fitted a GTR bonnet and grill. My next major mods are a set of Garett GT2860-5's, HKS dumps, Nismo pump and Sard 700cc injectors which i hope to have installed in the next week or 2, when there on and tuned i'll post of the dyno sheet, it should be around the 300rwkw mark :cheers:

grill2.jpg

Edited by DSTROY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250585-r32-gts4-with-rb26/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Amazing work!! love the engine colour, did you choose that or did it come with it?

I painted it myself before it went in, its just spay can stuff with a clear coat, colour is Cyan Metalic you can get if from Super Cheap.

Damn this thing is awesome, a Sleeper and a half!

You couldn't even tell, unless you can recognise the exhaust note and you probley freak the crap out off ppl trying to drag you off at the light.

BTW you said you have an APexi Power-FC D-Jectro installed, but I see you still got the air flow metres in one of the pics... I thought you did not need air flow metres with the D-Jectro..?

is your gtr bonnet Black as well? looks gunmetal to me

Yeah it is Gunmetal, will get it painted when i get some other bits and pieces done, just dont have the funds atm.

Make sure to post up your dyno result in the forced induction sticky, i'd like to compare against mine as we are using almost exactly the same parts.. 'cept for the d'jetro.

will do mate.

Damn this thing is awesome, a Sleeper and a half!

You couldn't even tell, unless you can recognise the exhaust note and you probley freak the crap out off ppl trying to drag you off at the light.

BTW you said you have an APexi Power-FC D-Jectro installed, but I see you still got the air flow metres in one of the pics... I thought you did not need air flow metres with the D-Jectro..?

The air flow meters are there to keep the street legal look, but they have had all there insides removed to increase flow.

Here's the dyno graph :)

post-51334-1231466208_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

This is my latest mod to the car, cold air box. Helps keep the hot air out and it also hides my boost controller solenoid :P

engine2.jpg

I also went out and brought this little kit the other day, just need to find the time to put it on.

oilcooler.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

so.. where does the air go? I can't see any venting to allow flow through so does that mean that it will just be a dead pocket of air around the cooler or am I missing something? Other than that it looks very nice, trying to figure out where and how to mount one in my car.

so.. where does the air go? I can't see any venting to allow flow through so does that mean that it will just be a dead pocket of air around the cooler or am I missing something? Other than that it looks very nice, trying to figure out where and how to mount one in my car.

I have got hold of a R33 front left inner guard that i will cut the vent out of and rivet it behind my cooler :domokun: i just ran out of time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...