Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are you running a timing cover?

you ran it with the timing cover off didnt you, and you didnt put washers to space the CAS (cam angle sensor) out thats why you have broken the tab on the cam which positions it in the right spot and timing, what it also dose is stuffs up the CAS because it hits in the cam gear bolts, the only way to fix is replace this is a common thing ppl thinks it kool to see ya cam gears and belt going around lol this will learn ya. and if ya tunner did it he should have knowin better and maybe he or she shouldnt be touching ya skyline.

sometimes ya can give the CAS a tap and it will come bak for a little. but with that tab on the cam missing things can get messy because if the CAS slipps a toth at full noise there goes ya engine.

Edited by Travis Trayhern
  • Replies 124
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

We didn't run it with the timing cover off. But we did notice the first time we pulled the cover off and the CAS out is that it had snapped the tabs, only 1 was still stuck in the CAS. and that it had rubbed on the cam bolts. Then we put the cover back on and the CAS back on. And we could still hear the rubbing sound with the timing cover on. And what would need to be replaced? Both the CAS and cam? And the other weird thing i noticed is the CAS has a mitsubishi symbol on the front of it. Is this normal?

Cas will be in the right spot. There is no need to replace anything, just need to take more time when installing the cas. I call bulls@#t to the theory that the cas drive wears allowing the timing to jump around, and the pin certainly doesn't do anything once the splines are engaged. There is no way this can blow your motor. All early rb's have a mitsubishi cas.

drop the exhaust off from the turbo housing and give it a run on the dyno.

but first see if the rear wheel of the turbo is still intact and not in the cat converter

if it makes the power then check the cat to see if its shagged - could be a major restriction there,

well borrow a CAS because thats your problem, because when it rubs on the cam gear bolts it also puts preasure on the internals of it, as previous post said with the cam lob gone it just makes it really hard to line up but it look like its done the damage to it already, if you do put another one on make sure it is spaced out and shouldnt hit there is a rubber that goes inbetween the timing cover it also had small washers in it to space it out

I can't believe that the workshop hasn't found the problem yet?

- Pressurize your entire intake system and see if there is a leak.

- Check the cat

- Check the AFRs again

- Check there is enough fuel flow, not just pressure

- Do a compression test - You might have blown the engine

There are more options but do the basics.

Edited by The Mafia

Ok had a talk to the workshop my cars in and they hooked up a haltech e11 with a base map and it still had the same problem. He doesn't think it could be the cat, pistons or cams bacause if it was it would run badly at idle. So now im back to the situation of not knowing what the hell is wrong with my car...

Ok had a talk to the workshop my cars in and they hooked up a haltech e11 with a base map and it still had the same problem. He doesn't think it could be the cat, pistons or cams bacause if it was it would run badly at idle. So now im back to the situation of not knowing what the hell is wrong with my car...

Mate, I did a ring landing, and valve, and the ONLY thing you could tell from it when it first let go, was that it had a SLIGHT miss to it at idle. That's it.

Cat blocked, she'll still run fine.

As to the cam timing, you can unplug it and it'll be fine. It only moves the cam a few degrees. Rule it out.

Drop the exhaust, and run it on the dyno, is power back? No? Leave it off...

Compression test motor, is comp down? No, move on.

Pressure test whole inlet, is there a leak? No, Move on.

Checked the cams? Haven't snapped one? Cars have seen to run but make no power with snapped cams before.

Trailer the car to a new workshop me thinks. If you have internal damage all this stuffing around with the ECU changes is just making it worse as each time he is having to run the engine again. You said the workshop said he doesn't think it would be the cat but has he bothered to check it yet? Maybe exhaust is crushed, maybe inlet pipes are sucking closed, maybe he left the brakes/handbrake on, Maybe his Dyno is broken?

Yea im thinking of taking the day off on wednesday and just saying, give me your tools and a hoist and i will check this stuff out. So other than the stuff MBS206 has said. Can any one give me more stuff to check and i will just print out a list and tick each one off on wednesday. And i really hope the cam isn't snapped.

dose it ide ok? seriously if it ides ok there should be anything like cam snaped or rings busted with out a miss fire or blue smoke pooring out the back lol my money is still on the CAS dude can you borrow one the try out? and whats going on when u just free rev it?

has it got a gates timing belt on it?

it will be a bluey black colour.

thats probally your rubbing noise from the front of the engine.

dead fuel pump?

check all 3 cam timing marks?

do a compression test and replace your plugs if they look shitty.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...