Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 447
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Glad to hear.

Killabeez, check your pm. Yes S13 rear is available.

Musky, the choice for upgrading the rear or not is totally up to you. I had front slotted on my old R33 Gtst and std rear as well. No problems.

Could I please get a quote for Front slotted + Rear slotted rotors and Green EBC pads all round for a R34 GTT? Ship to Adelaide. Thanks.

gday mate

um ive got an r34 gtt

wondering how much all up to get Grooved Dimpled on the front and standard slotted on the back both with pads will be sent to adelaide, 5108

thanks mate

oh thats a decent price um when will the next groupe buy be after that one mate?

um brakes not really in this months budget

no problems

next group buy some time in early July.

if you go to My Controls, upper RH corner, then on the left sidebar go to Board Settings, make sure the "Disable Personal Messenger" section is set to No.

Setting it to Yes will disable your personal messenger.

if still doesn't work, email me: rsoputro at hotmail dot com

(replace the obvious words above with the proper symbols, you know the drill - spam prevention)

i'll send you a quote soon.

Hey bud, after current pricing on front slotted; and for both plain and slotted for rear rotors. To suit R33 GTS-t. Delivery to 4108.

Cheers

Edited by N-DAWG

Hi, is there anyone online who can tell me in the next 5 minutes how the hell to get the rear rotors off an R34GTT? Otherwise I am taking to it with a slegehammer. I assume the handbrake assembly is inside the top hat and I somehow have to undo that? Please help ASAP. I have the car in 1,000,000 pieces right now and want to get it back together.

release handbrake. handbrake drums might be pressing the inner drum of the rotors, making it too tight to remove.

it can get sticky, from all those age old rust and dirt and grime get stuck in between. use rubber mallet. sledgehammer is a bit extreme... :-)

Yeah I released the handbrake. So there are definitely no other nuts/bolts to remove once the brake caliper is off? Just bash the bit of the disk you can see? Trouble is with the shield around it there is not much room to swing or hit.

Damn - might jack it up as high as it will go and get some leverage on the mallet. Thanks! It doesn't seem to have much movement at all - I take it it will gradually loosen up and come off?

Well I have just finished putting it all back together.

In the end I gave up on the getting the rear rotors off - making the necessary noise at 11pm seems like a bad idea in my neighbourhood.

So, today I did:

- Fitted front RDA slotted/passivated rotors

- Fitted front QFM HPX pads

- Fitted front and rear ADR compliant braided brake lines

- Flushed entire brake system with Motul Dot5 and refilled/bled

- Painted all calipers gold

Phew - 9.5 hours all up.

The result is below

post-669-1243527641_thumb.jpg

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...