Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

MY Kaaz sounds like its tearing itself to pieces!

Its was making BAd noises from the begining, as soon as i reversed out of the shed and turned it was doing it... i had to drive around 15k to get to a car park to run it in, but i drove sensibly...

when u go round a corner with the clutch in it makes a bit of a whiring noise.. that i expect.. but as soon as u are driving normally it doesnt sound happy at all....

(sounds like the thing is skipping splines on the axel... and no its not.. i checked.. twice)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251390-noisy-as-fark-kaaz-2-way/
Share on other sites

I had the Kaaz stuff in it, then i changed it because u are supposed to after run in.. so i put the reccomended stuff in it.. (cant rember off the top of my head) I was gunan get some more kaaz stuff but dont wanna waste $100 worth of oil if its not gunna fix it

I had the Kaaz stuff in it, then i changed it because u are supposed to after run in.. so i put the reccomended stuff in it.. (cant rember off the top of my head) I was gunan get some more kaaz stuff but dont wanna waste $100 worth of oil if its not gunna fix it

if you have put redline diff oil in then this could be your problem, the oil is too thin for the kaaz diff and results it becoming very noisy; when did it start making the noises?

Ive got a kaaz 1.5 way with about 1500kms on it, and im not happy with the clunks and grinding noises either. Im thinking of pulling it out and putting a standard one back in. I changed the oil after run in with more kaaz oil, and the diff became a bit quieter, but still feels as though the rear cradle is dragging on the road when in car parks. I f**kin hate it at the moment.

Ive got a kaaz 1.5 way with about 1500kms on it, and im not happy with the clunks and grinding noises either. Im thinking of pulling it out and putting a standard one back in. I changed the oil after run in with more kaaz oil, and the diff became a bit quieter, but still feels as though the rear cradle is dragging on the road when in car parks. I f**kin hate it at the moment.

I changed the oil in mine yesterday and put some Penrite Competition diff oil 140w in it and it is ten times better! still makes afew noises but nothing like it was!

So did you have the recommended Kaaz oil in it before you changed to the Penrite?

Ive heard that the Penrite seems to quieten them down a bit. When you say "a few noises", do you mean clunk!, clunk! around tight corners in car parks, or just slight grinding noises.

Thanks,

Shaun.

Toughen up people!

If you wanted a quiet diff you should have stuck with a viscous LSD.

I have changed the oil in my KAAZ diff twice, both times using KAAZ oil, each time it has quietened down a little. I am due for a third and final oil change, which will be done shortly, using a Castrol oil, which has been recommended by a friend using the same diff.

All mechanical diffs will be noisy as you accelerate gently through a corner, if you don't like the feel/noise just push the clutch to eliminate the drive force to the diff. I just don't worry about it.

So did you have the recommended Kaaz oil in it before you changed to the Penrite?

Ive heard that the Penrite seems to quieten them down a bit. When you say "a few noises", do you mean clunk!, clunk! around tight corners in car parks, or just slight grinding noises.

Thanks,

Shaun.

REALLY bad clunkingnear on grinding noises.... One of a mates has a Kaaz and its quiet compared to mine.. mine sounded like it was tearing itself to bits!!

now with the penrite it just makes a few noises in carparks etc.. that i can live with.. very happy now!

Toughen up people!

If you wanted a quiet diff you should have stuck with a viscous LSD.

I have changed the oil in my KAAZ diff twice, both times using KAAZ oil, each time it has quietened down a little. I am due for a third and final oil change, which will be done shortly, using a Castrol oil, which has been recommended by a friend using the same diff.

All mechanical diffs will be noisy as you accelerate gently through a corner, if you don't like the feel/noise just push the clutch to eliminate the drive force to the diff. I just don't worry about it.

Mate it doesnt worry me a f**k if it makes a few noises.. but this wasnt right at all.. it made more noises than a auto locker... now with the new oil its spot on!

  • 2 weeks later...

I wouldnt recomend the castrol oil, ive got a nizmo 2 way and had the castrol stuff in there, wasnt to bad but later on i changed to penrite 90 weight stuff and it it heaps smoother, still clunks and stuff but i dont mind that :P

might be different to the kaaz ones, seems like you guys are all using a much heavier oil

Edited by s13_Skyline_inside

2way LSDs are very aggressive and thanks to that will always make a noise and theres almost no way of drowning the sound completely but at least when your cornering you tend to forget about the noise. tho, i gotta admit the noise is annoying.

from what i heard from some, the nismo 2 way and the tomei technical trax 2way are quieter than the rest.

  • 4 weeks later...

these diffs are supposed to make noise it feels like the whole cradle is moving and ready to drop out but if you don't want the noise then get a stock car i'm pretty sure all of these things ultimately have the race track in mind and that's where they are supposed to be used hence the lack of quietness if ya don't like it stock is the way to go mine sounds like crap but if ya want it you put up with it still works a treat oh and i use motul oil essentially the same as nismo oil just without the nismo and price tag

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...