Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks that would be great!

I'd be keen to hear more about lowering the engine. I know several RB30's have been put in at stockish heights, but everyone seems to do it differently. There's a market for bolt in mount kits, so everything needed to install RB30 to R32GTR in one package.

that guy simon has the worlds best kept secret on lowering the engine but he won't let the cat out of the bag

.I have 1 theory which I've discussed with another mechanic and would work

I heard of a trick using rb20 engine mounts which lowers it 10-15mm. Though dont know how accurate that is as I havent done it myself.

How much lower would the engine need to sit in order for the timing cover to not hit the bonnet bracing? Would 20mm drop be enough?

I heard of a trick using rb20 engine mounts which lowers it 10-15mm. Though dont know how accurate that is as I havent done it myself.

How much lower would the engine need to sit in order for the timing cover to not hit the bonnet bracing? Would 20mm drop be enough?

I recently did a 26/30 for someone. It required an 8mm drop, bonnet support cut out towards the front and the twin turbo 'badge' shaved off the twin turbo pipe to make it smooth.

With all that, it only just touches by a whisper.

With a standard bonnet I'd say 25mm would see it clear with no other changes.

I'm fairly sure RB20 mounts are the same height as GTR but I could be wrong. The other problem with lowering the engine in the subframe is the clearance between the sump and the subframe is only about 15mm at best from factory. You could possibly go 10mm of that but I reckon driveshaft clearances would have to be considered if you did

I recently did a 26/30 for someone. It required an 8mm drop, bonnet support cut out towards the front and the twin turbo 'badge' shaved off the twin turbo pipe to make it smooth.

With all that, it only just touches by a whisper.

With a standard bonnet I'd say 25mm would see it clear with no other changes.

I'm fairly sure RB20 mounts are the same height as GTR but I could be wrong. The other problem with lowering the engine in the subframe is the clearance between the sump and the subframe is only about 15mm at best from factory. You could possibly go 10mm of that but I reckon driveshaft clearances would have to be considered if you did

exactly what i did to mine - cut the bonnet brace above the front cams, took off the twin turbo badge & milled off the boss for the badge.

funnily though, i had to run the bonnet without the insulation as this was starting to rub the paint off my newly painted covers. that is how tight it was under there!

I recently did a 26/30 for someone. It required an 8mm drop, bonnet support cut out towards the front and the twin turbo 'badge' shaved off the twin turbo pipe to make it smooth.

With all that, it only just touches by a whisper.

With a standard bonnet I'd say 25mm would see it clear with no other changes.

I'm fairly sure RB20 mounts are the same height as GTR but I could be wrong. The other problem with lowering the engine in the subframe is the clearance between the sump and the subframe is only about 15mm at best from factory. You could possibly go 10mm of that but I reckon driveshaft clearances would have to be considered if you did

I was thinking if you could achieve say half inch of lowering engine towards sub frame via engine mount mods and then lowering sub frame half inch off chassis rail then you would be pretty damn close and both of those things are very straight forward and have probably been done before. But as you said you would need to look at drive shaft clearances and angles.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...