Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, when i imorted my 32 gtst it came with 17x9 rays nismo LM GT1 rims. i love them, i would never have thought i would end up with a set, as most people who have commented on them have said how hard they are to come by. im just interested to know a bit more about them. does anyone know if nissan use them on a certian race or production car at any point in time? cheers adam

post-33502-1231599880_thumb.jpg

post-33502-1231600004_thumb.jpg

post-33502-1231600188_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251994-rays-lm-gt-1-rims/
Share on other sites

I was going to say, gee they look exactly like my LM-GT2's ... Thanks for the clarification MintR33 !

They are an awesome looking rim. I have them for my circuit racing, love the look... make the car look so much tougher than the VOLK multispoke rims i use for street...

Gary

hey guys, when i imorted my 32 gtst it came with 17x9 rays nismo LM GT1 rims. i love them, i would never have thought i would end up with a set, as most people who have commented on them have said how hard they are to come by. im just interested to know a bit more about them. does anyone know if nissan use them on a certian race or production car at any point in time? cheers adam

They are like any other aftermarket wheels, but I believe it is Rays Engineering who make the wheels, do not make them anymore as there are the Nismo LMGT4's now hence why they are rare.

Nissan/Nismo would have used them on their Skylines/Fairladies (Z cars) with their racing events like with the R34 GTR and the 350Z JGTC, they use Nismo LMGT4's.

I would keep them for sure.

Also Revhed01 has a set of White Nismo LMGT2 wheels and looks very nice.

cheers lads. they are a bit scrappy so i want to get them reconditioned. how would i go about replacing the "nismo" decals? also, anyone know a good workshop in brisbane who recondition rims? adam

As good as new, it was cheap, only about $100. Just give yourself a full afternoon to seperate the wheels though it takes alot longer than you'll think.

I planned on getting the middle part machined back to silver and then doing everything in clear but didnt end up doing the machining. Make sure you get the clear though, they recommended it to prevent fading, stone chips etc. Its not much extra either.

  • 4 months later...

Had these for over two years now.

They suit the 32's!

These are 18x10's all round.

Only problem I have had is the inner rim cracking, from fatigue crappy Sydney roads etc.

Got em de buckled, rewelded and machined. Running 265 35R18 tyres all round, as I was running 255 35's, too stretched lol.

post-12712-1242908672_thumb.jpg

Got LM GT1's on my 33 . I tried to get a spare back in 2001 (Scraped a gutter) and was told that it would be almost impossible so I agree, EXTREMELY RARE rims nowdays

post-31195-1242912244_thumb.jpg

You dont have LMGT1's they're LM-GT2's

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4607823

Edited by MintR33
Had these for over two years now.

They suit the 32's!

These are 18x10's all round.

Only problem I have had is the inner rim cracking, from fatigue crappy Sydney roads etc.

Got em de buckled, rewelded and machined. Running 265 35R18 tyres all round, as I was running 255 35's, too stretched lol.

post-12712-1242908672_thumb.jpg

That looks tuff as!

Tops it off really well.

That looks tuff as!

Tops it off really well.

Cheers,

Your wheels suit your beast too, gotta get that certain look going!

Only problem is that if these crack again they can't be fixed, so it's gonna be hard to find the 'right' wheels for the beast.

Had these for over two years now.

They suit the 32's!

These are 18x10's all round.

Only problem I have had is the inner rim cracking, from fatigue crappy Sydney roads etc.

Got em de buckled, rewelded and machined. Running 265 35R18 tyres all round, as I was running 255 35's, too stretched lol.

post-12712-1242908672_thumb.jpg

That looks absolutely tuff as!! Love it....do you have anymore pics you can post up??

That looks absolutely tuff as!! Love it....do you have anymore pics you can post up??

Thanks Michael. Guess I could.. :D

Now I'm after a replacement center cap! Lost one down at Wakefield park!!grrrr

post-12712-1242985180_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1242985205_thumb.jpg[

attachment=224760:krispy_c...appy_035.jpg]post-12712-1242985237_thumb.jpg[att

achment=224762:putty_003.jpg]post-12712-1242985487_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1242985519_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1242985226_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1242985252_thumb.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Bought my car about 3 months ago and they came with the same kinda rims, was just wondering if they are original LMGT 1's or 2's because i cant find any on the net that come in 16"s without the dish. also wondering what they are roughly worth.

post-64020-1245302887_thumb.jpg

post-64020-1245302922_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...