Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey blokes,

this is a little thing ive noticed just recently, would the number plate of a car (front bar) affect performance; response/temps etc

I had a chance to experience this just a few days ago when i changed my plates:

-When i bought the car, i had GARGYA on the front and didnt notice any issues etc etc.....

-Changed to GTR-13 which is quite a bit smaller and thus i didnt require to fit spacers and angle changes so the plate fits more aerodynamically.

Long story short, my car felt instantly more responsive and my oil temps/water temps went down about 2degrees; same as my knocks on full throttle (from 28ish down to 17now)

Believing it was simply a fluke, i tried my car on a hot day (37degrees) and the same result, normally my knocks would be about the 28-30mark on WOT, now only 21

Conclusion: the theory is all there; more air, less drag = better cooling which is great

-Johnny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252568-number-plate-vs-airflow/
Share on other sites

PROTIP: Left side gives better flow than right.

I'm starting to like where this thread is going...

i have a sticker made up with the right grade reflective material and the correct font for the numbers and letters. Its displayed on the passenger side of the front bar...i too noticed a difference. :)

img4724qe8.jpg

Edited by DiRTgarage
I care --><-- this much.

All it means is that with a side mounted number plate you can afford to drive a little bit slower so everyone can see how siiiik you are, for the same air/water/knock/wank level :)

its done purely for purpose not for looks. My car is a racecar and is only road registered as a requirement for the class of racing i compete in. A numberplate that is restricting airflow at over 230klm/h is something that could mean the difference between winning and loosing a race as they are timed in 1000th's of seconds. It flying off at those speeds is something i dont want either.

grow up

dragcombatlaunch2zq7.jpg

Edited by DiRTgarage

^ i doubt it.

I probably should slimline, considering my entire plate virtually covers (mounts are right near the top)

Suppose there is a gain there, although i wouldn't expect anything to wet my panties for a street car as my temps are already 69-70 degree's in peak hour for water temp which is already decent enough

All trolling aside, if you guys want to read a serious discussion on the reletive merits of mounting one's number plate to the side I can refer you to http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...+plate+mounting , it has the CT think tank weighing up advantages to disadvantages, something I'm sure the OP as well as the admins can appreciate.

It is my sincere hope that this post does not serve to inflame the vengeful wrath of the moderators.

i had 1 of those sticker number plates on the front lip of my skyline, i got done once, drove past a cop and he sent me a fine in the mail, think it was $75, then down the coast i got pulled over, and he fined me $185 or something maybe more cant really remember and that was for "fake number plate" even though i had the correct numbers and letters in correct order, then he ripped the number plate off my car and gave me a $75 fine for no front number plate, i felt like shooting him the asshole,

more OT: i can see how in drag you would want your numberplate to be stuck on, every little bit counts as u said,

JV

A drag car and a car with no front bar with the cooler totally exposed are completely different to a street car here. I've got slimline NSW plates on mine, if it weren't dark, I could measure exactly how far the plate is hanging down beneath the mounting place (GT-R front bumper mind you), but I doubt it would be in excess of 3cm.

The one and only difference I've seen to water temps is the amount of coolant actually in there! (assuming that the cooling system is working properly.)

This is from my experiences with street cars, not drag, drift or track cars.

I have a fairly small front mount and it sits higher off the ground than a lot of ones you see around and on the dyno it was still getting some heat soak at low power levels. I trimmed the bar a bit and moved the plate up so the bolts go through the centre of it rather than on top (exposed an area half the size of the number plate) and it now doesnt get the same heat soak.

fair enough it helps but only a little. driving the streets the heat wont be that bad , but if your pedantic why not run no front bar at all ( joking ) . and can i also mention goddam thats alot of records under that car musta taken ages to get it looking right

fair enough it helps but only a little. driving the streets the heat wont be that bad , but if your pedantic why not run no front bar at all ( joking ) . and can i also mention goddam thats alot of records under that car musta taken ages to get it looking right

they are all broken records...i.e.the theme was record breaking GTR...there was 400 of them!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...