Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

goto EAS in airport west

theres no need to drive half across melbourne for a std procedure item

theres done a trillion skylines

There is no need to drive half way across Melb period, wether for a basic tune or a full house build up :P

It's the reason I don't recommend EAS to eastside people; good workshops can be found on both sides of town, just silly to waste money, time and fuel driving across town. Having said that, EAS has a a fair few customers come from the east and also country areas, so each to their own.

try leo's garage in white street highpoint.....right down the end on the left hand side....leo is from chilli and worked for subaru in the world rally team.....ever seen anyone take a WRX gearbox out,apart fit a new main shaft and back in within 1 1/2 hours?If you have that would be him :angry:...leo is not a performance shop for nissan's mitsubishi's ect,his knowledge on subaru's is incredible....But a job like that isnt rocket science so theres no good paying a premium to get it done.....

  • 2 weeks later...
WOW! iseekool thanks alot, thats really helpful. maybe ill buy those oils to and provide them to whoever i take the car too.

CHEERS THAT'S GREAT INFO.

Also i forgot to mention, when i change gears in my auto the car seems to move or shake forward or backwards a little.

IS DAT A SIGN OF MY GEARBOX SCREWING UP? or just needs new oil? My uncle mentioned something about getting my gearbox flushed and add new oil... is that suppose to make it better?

I have the same thing happening in any auto car, it is normal for an auto, especially if the engine is cold due to the higher revs, once everything is warmed up it is felt much less. How bad is it? Is there a big delay when it happens? Do you notice any drivability problems, rough shifts or mis-shifts?

Changing the trans fluid will not hurt. :P but personally I'd put it as a lower priority for now. Depending on how much you drive - the trans fluid should be good for another 1/2 year - but of course as with anything the sooner you change the better. Don't forget to use Castrol Transmax Z. :)

dr drift in brooklyn??

like has been said, the 100 000 service isnt rocket science, just takes a bit of work. So i reckon ideally you would just want to get a workshop that is relatively close and knows skylines. It will cost you around the 1000 mark id say, When i was living in Albury, i got mine done, i think it worked out to about 1000 from memory.

dr drift in brooklyn??

like has been said, the 100 000 service isnt rocket science, just takes a bit of work. So i reckon ideally you would just want to get a workshop that is relatively close and knows skylines. It will cost you around the 1000 mark id say, When i was living in Albury, i got mine done, i think it worked out to about 1000 from memory.

PM Justin911 and see what he has to say about going there for anything timing belt related...

lol

ey TJ i had the Gates timing belt installed in my R33 GTST done by RE customs and its a very slight hum. i could only here it when i was standing in fron of the car trying hard to listen to it. apart fromt hat you cant here it inside your car.

i have a HKS belt in my R34 and ye its loud as f**k and annoying. youll prob here it on the dyno day or if your at RE this arvo lol

but ye Gates timing belt awesome and cheap from just jap

ey TJ i had the Gates timing belt installed in my R33 GTST done by RE customs and its a very slight hum. i could only here it when i was standing in fron of the car trying hard to listen to it. apart fromt hat you cant here it inside your car.

i have a HKS belt in my R34 and ye its loud as f**k and annoying. youll prob here it on the dyno day or if your at RE this arvo lol

but ye Gates timing belt awesome and cheap from just jap

oh yeah ...awsome, ray said he could get it cheaper, didn't really wanna know that hehe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...