Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have for sale a Brand New set of Rays GT-C Face 2's that I recently brought in from Japan for my R33 GTR.

nengun-1859-02-raysengineering-volk_racing_-_gtc_face_2.png

These rims are one of the toughest looking wheels you could possibly pick for your GTR, and measure a massive 19 x 10.5" all round with +11 offset and feature the dearer optional extra Mercury Silver centre offered by Rays, combined with a huge polished outer dish.

Included in the sale is a Brand New set of Rays Type GT - Low Type Centre Caps to suit

post-46-1232324863_thumb.jpg post-46-1232324910_thumb.jpg post-46-1232324944_thumb.jpg post-46-1232324829_thumb.jpg

post-46-1232324846_thumb.jpg post-46-1232324895_thumb.jpg post-46-1232324926_thumb.jpg post-46-1232325137_thumb.jpg

post-46-1232325041_thumb.jpg

Due to a change in circumstances and another recent property purchase I have decided to hold off on fitting these for the time being, however as much as I would love to hold on to them I simply cannot justify having a set of wheels of this calibre sitting around in my living room, so they must go.

Importing a set of these yourself from Nengun will cost you something like this:

- Wheels Cost: $4233.00 ($1058.31 per wheel to be exact!)

- Shipping: $500.00 (At Least)

- Import Duty: $473.00 (Approx)

- GST: $520.00 (Approx)

The above are very conservative estimates and this doesn't include the cost of the Centre Caps which I will be throwing in for the buyer, and of course not forgetting the significant lead time you will be waiting (months) if you do try and import a set yourself!

With all of this in mind I am asking a very reasonable $4850.00 (Over $1000.00 cheaper than buying yourself without the wait)

Located in Sydney (North Sydney)

Pickup preferred, however I am happy to send Australia wide if you organize your own courier.

Cheers.

if only they were gold i would have bought em cause this is exactly what i want for my r33 gtr damn

Trust me when I tell you these look much tougher and a great deal more classy than the gold ones :)

These are what I want to get eventually...too bad I just spent a few k on some other stuff...damn!

How would they go on a 32R? Theyd fit you think? Thats a tough offset...

and how are these rims for big caliper clearance usually?

These are what I want to get eventually...too bad I just spent a few k on some other stuff...damn!

How would they go on a 32R? Theyd fit you think? Thats a tough offset...

and how are these rims for big caliper clearance usually?

Hey Mat, they should be fine in terms of caliper clearance I would expect.

It may be worth checking the wheel offset calculator to check how they will sit in comparison to your current wheels.

I dealt with HPI Japan directly when I bought these, and Rays recommended this offset as being the optimal for BCNR33 so I would say they will provide a pretty tough/aggressive stance on a BNR32 :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...