Jump to content
SAU Community

Everyone loves a poll, right? right??  

21 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

dont do springs before shocks!!! they go pop and car rides badly...

IMO, Do shocks, then mower, then ECU, then brakes, then kit...

What area are you in too be on that much land :)

Heh, certainly NOT Toorak, that is for sure!

(Damn Man! Can you imagine owning a hectare in Toorak - retirement here I come)

Thanks for the hints on springs guys.

Just changed it to a Poll.

Hey! The option was there, why not use it?

ECU + FMIC is the way to go...'cause you already has the 3"turbo back+hi flow ,so your rocket will be ready for take off'(except you have a really good deal with any other part... :) ...deals first ,don't loose them...aaaaaarrrrrrrgggggggggghhh the eternal question WHAT TO DO?????????? :)

i'd say do the suspension and brakes first before you make it go any faster, better to be over equipped for the more HP than under- equipped in my opinion anyway, thats the way i would do, have everything setup so that when all of a sudden you gain an extra 40- 50kw you have all the bits and pieces to make you handle and pull up in time to do it with.

Bradd/

Mate, do the ECU no question, I have an S2 stagea and with mild mods had it dynoed at 163kw. Had an Emanage Ultimate and a Gizzmo EBC fitted and am now doing 203kw at the wheels best money I ever spent plus I reckon I get close to 100ks extra out of a tank. Have a look in the ECU and tuning discussion.

I did all the suspension first e.g. Coilovers / bushes and although i love the way it handles It certainly didn't give me the same thrill as 40kw. Also you may want to think about this when your replacing suspension especially with sportier stuff you may find you have to replace anything with significant wear e.g. bushes and so on as the added strain of sportier suspension plus the change to your driving (You naturally drive a sporty handling car faster imo) will force you to replace these parts else they will wear pretty quick.

My 2 cents anyway. (Wish I had some cash at the moment for some new mods)

so with the e manage ultimate , you buy the unit then you take it to a tuner yes ??? he does all the data and hey presto extra kw's , bettr fuel economy , etc , etc

PRICE ? I'VE SEN THE UNITS FOR ABOUT $1200 , so then i have to pay to have it fitted and tuned for my car ?? :laugh:

You haven't mentioned with your current set up a front mount intercooler (if you have I'm blind) anywayz, if you haven't a front mount, I would go that before anything else.

The M35 has a FMIC although small. He just wants a bigger one. You know , bigger is better.

Definitely the Bilsteins (and swaybars if you can manage). On the highway your average speed will be way up through not having to slow for corners so much and also save on brakes and petrol through not slowing down and speeding up. Stagea brakes are not their weak point anyway unless you want to go racing. I can't see these ecu remaps coming out any time soon just get second hand SITC and SAFC in the meantime. And get some sheep you can eat them at Christmas.

We know what happens to sheep in the land of the long white cloud. I never knew you actually eat them. How gross. LOL.

so with the e manage ultimate , you buy the unit then you take it to a tuner yes ??? he does all the data and hey presto extra kw's , bettr fuel economy , etc , etc

PRICE ? I'VE SEN THE UNITS FOR ABOUT $1200 , so then i have to pay to have it fitted and tuned for my car ?? :(

I dunno how much you would actually gain from just installing an Emanage. I ad the following initial mods and then instaled the Emanage

S2 Stagea Neo

3" fujitsubo Front Pipe and Catback

3" Metal Cat

Trust Front mount

Trust Blow Off Valve

Trust Pod

All that equaled 163awkw on the dyno. (Remembering that a s2 neo is quoted at 206kw as factory although this is measured at the fly i believe)

Install Emanage and Gizzmo ebc hey presto 203kw on 12 pounds of boost, plus the emanage removes the 2 stage boost the stageas have so full boost all the time :(

All this talk of suspension is making me wish I bid on that Nismo suspension in Import Monster a month ago.

6 months old (but, really how can you tell?) in good condition (from photos) for $730 delivered.

BAH!

How the Gods of time mock thee!

$730 delivered!!!!!!!!!!! holy crap! ill be checking out that site methinks

Nah, long gone by now.

Had different numbers than the "official" M35 nismo suspension... but then I saw a thread here with pics of a Nismo M35 spring and it had the SAME NUMBERS as the auction kit! ;)

Could have started tearing throats out if I was around people at that point :)

Edited by iamhe77

I'd say FMIC and ECU...you would definitely notice power gains and fuel savings and with suspension...they will always be there but given the current exchange rate...it's murder to get a set from Japan

I've gotta save up the pennies for a Nistune ECU board so then i can finally install my turbo (HKS GT2535) and get the ECU done and tune it up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...