Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Given a fairly optimal tune on pump gas, what + does a tune for C16 give - as a percentage on base tune?

assume twins or a single, doesn't really matter, any real world experiences? I know from a search

that dirtgarage dyno'd at 400 something on pump @ 28psi and 460 something on race @ 34psi.

So that would be roughly a 15% improvement. It wasn't clear whether that was two optimal maps

or just gained from upping the boost, though..

I'd also love to know if that is 15% all through the rev range, or just at the top end..

Since power-fc is so common, with its single map, perhaps there aren't many documented examples?

but maybe cars with Motecs, Vipecs know the answer..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253466-pump-vs-race-or-c16/
Share on other sites

Every car, every setup is different.

There is no set improvement. Some people see massive gains due to restrictions and also the flip side of better flow

Some people less because they can already run good timing numbers

Nothing set IMO. Take it on its own merit.

Every car, every setup is different.

There is no set improvement. Some people see massive gains due to restrictions and also the flip side of better flow

Some people less because they can already run good timing numbers

Nothing set IMO. Take it on its own merit.

thanks,

but that can be the answer to almost every question here that has the word "power" in it.

Was hoping for some real world examples if there are no rules, or even rules of thumb..

nobody (with time to post) runs two maps and two fuels?

the combustion characteristics of the race fuels are obviously quite different ( in a good way) and therefore not only does this effect everything in a tune , from cam timing to AFR but, also if you intend running a car on race gas then you can do allot to the way the engine is built for optimisation or the reverse if you are running on a fuel the build was not intended for.

Hence the comments along the line of 'how long is a peice of string'.

If you wanted a guide there really is only one for motors of the same type , spec and build assuming the same tune. Sounds pretty useless doesn't it.

However, as a rule 'race fuel' will always offer some benificial gains over BP regular etc.

Some street based cars use it due to it's nicer burn characteristics and soley run it to protect the motor in races or the occasional motorsport event. It is not uncommon for there to be little or no power gain chased by these situations. The fuel is consistantly good unlike pump fuel experiences and offers the margin of safety for extreeme events.

My mates and I used to fuel up with Av-gas for a trip to the drags (prior to my skyline days). We found it better for the day at the drags for things like vapour lock on a hot day and also to help things like when jetting for temp changes during the meet it was easier to get it right. Although the gear we play with is high tech the race fuels offer a more forgiving margin.

Hope that helps. :)

Edited by rev210
the combustion characteristics of the race fuels are obviously quite different ( in a good way) and therefore not only does this effect everything in a tune , from cam timing to AFR but, also if you intend running a car on race gas then you can do allot to the way the engine is built for optimisation or the reverse if you are running on a fuel the build was not intended for.

Hence the comments along the line of 'how long is a peice of string'.

If you wanted a guide there really is only one for motors of the same type , spec and build assuming the same tune. Sounds pretty useless doesn't it.

However, as a rule 'race fuel' will always offer some benificial gains over BP regular etc.

Some street based cars use it due to it's nicer burn characteristics and soley run it to protect the motor in races or the occasional motorsport event. It is not uncommon for there to be little or no power gain chased by these situations. The fuel is consistantly good unlike pump fuel experiences and offers the margin of safety for extreeme events.

My mates and I used to fuel up with Av-gas for a trip to the drags (prior to my skyline days). We found it better for the day at the drags for things like vapour lock on a hot day and also to help things like when jetting for temp changes during the meet it was easier to get it right. Although the gear we play with is high tech the race fuels offer a more forgiving margin.

Hope that helps. :)

It helps a bit.

But I was thinking more along the lines of feedback from someone who runs or did run an ECU with two maps and

(obviously) the same engine. What did they dyno on the pump gas map and what did they dyno on the C16 map.

From reading experiences outside skyline/rb land, but still from forced induction motors, going from pump to

C16 allowed quite a thumping increase in torque simply obtained by advancing the timing and increasing the boost

and running leaner.. three things some ECUs can do all at once without any change to engine setup.

But it wasn't clear from searching whether there are RB26 engines have reported the same result.

Another way of looking at the question: if australian servos switched to japanese pump gas - which isn't anything

like C16 - you guys would be off to the tuner to get remapped, yes?

I wonder what % gain would be typical. 1%? 5%? 10%?

^^ much better words than i put in :)

I made over 100rwkw more with just 6psi when i used 104 vs pulp, but as i said, i had a restriction so the better fuel negated that massively and an extra +8 degree of global timing. BUt not everyone will see such gains and so on

^^ much better words than i put in :)

I made over 100rwkw more with just 6psi when i used 104 vs pulp, but as i said, i had a restriction so the better fuel negated that massively and an extra +8 degree of global timing. BUt not everyone will see such gains and so on

The better fuel may have negated the restriction more than you think if the restriction was in the exhaust/exhaust housing.

I knew what you meant - maybe we mean the same thing ;)

I was just saying that the tune-up on race fuel with the extra timing would likely have relieved some of the back-pressure issues you had.

Like I said, we're probably saying the same thing...

It was 270rwkw and a choked 270rwkw at that, and this was on 17psi... bumped to 24 (ok 7psi, my brain isnt good with math) :O

This was all on the big 600hp GT30, not the 500/550 littler ones so there was other issues with comp surge and so on to deal with.

On the pulp tune anymore and it would get agro with detonation and so on, there were a few factors involved/fixed/relieved other than just a fuel/timing change as Adrian has said in a better way than i did :)

The figure sounds about right for what a 600hp turbo on fuel should do seeing as though the GT35's on PULP get similar numbers

So ye Adrian - we are thinking the same thing :D

It all depends on the efficiency of the engine/set-up...the more efficient the engine the less the gain as it burns the fuel better and consequently transfer's its energy into power better. For example my old set-up (the example you gave) used to see over 50-60awkw gain (best back to back run we did was 70awkw)...now its only about 20-30awkw. A stock or near stock set-up may see 85-95awkw gain (Ash's car is a perfect example of ths).

hope these real world example's are of help.

Edited by DiRTgarage
It all depends on the efficiency of the engine/set-up...the more efficient the engine the less the gain as it burns the fuel better and consequently transfer's its energy into power better. For example my old set-up (the example you gave) used to see over 50-60awkw gain (best back to back run we did was 70awkw)...now its only about 20-30awkw. A stock or near stock set-up may see 85-95awkw gain (Ash's car is a perfect example of ths).

hope these real world example's are of help.

that is interesting.. thanks. So what mod do you most attribute the reduced gap to, for your particular engine evolution?

I assume both outputs went up, but the pulp went up more (thus closing the gap)?

It all depends on the efficiency of the engine/set-up...the more efficient the engine the less the gain as it burns the fuel better and consequently transfer's its energy into power better. For example my old set-up (the example you gave) used to see over 50-60awkw gain (best back to back run we did was 70awkw)...now its only about 20-30awkw. A stock or near stock set-up may see 85-95awkw gain (Ash's car is a perfect example of ths).

hope these real world example's are of help.

I take it your only talking a topend power figure when your refering to engine efficency. Better fuels should always make more horsepower and if they dont then its time to make the engine more dynamic.

that is interesting.. thanks. So what mod do you most attribute the reduced gap to, for your particular engine evolution?

I assume both outputs went up, but the pulp went up more (thus closing the gap)?

the head

I take it your only talking a topend power figure when your refering to engine efficency. Better fuels should always make more horsepower and if they dont then its time to make the engine more dynamic.

Well midrange is also massively improved with the added timing and so on, boost sooner etc

the difference was night/day with my car and not just because of the 100kw... without the +8 timing it was still amazing with just the extra boost... the timing just made it silly :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...