Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok heres the parts list

-New Crank

-CP forged pistons

-Eagle Conrods

-Gates racing timing belt

-Tomei sump baffle kit

-Mines rocker cover baffle set

-Genuine Gasket set

-Tomei metal gasket set

- ACL Race Bearings to mains and Rods

Recondition Cylinder head

Bore Hone and face block

Plus Labour to remove engine, strip, reassemble, clearance for bearings, ring gaps etc, refit to vehicle

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

that is a really good engine setup if you do go ahead with it.. you should PM Dirtgarage and get him to quote a engine build for you.. chances are it will be cheaper and will be built by someone who knows RB engines better then.. well everyone :D

another package is.....

* NITTO 4340 billet steel I-beam conrods with ARP 2000 series rod bolts

* JE 2816 aluminium alloy forged piston set with premuim ring sets

* NITTO high volume oil pump

* ACL race series main and rod bearings

* Genuine Nissan full gasket kit

* NITTO drag series dual bore seal metal head gasket

Yer mate, will be putting in a call to Dirt Garge

cheers!

Ok heres the parts list

-New Crank

-CP forged pistons

-Eagle Conrods

-Gates racing timing belt

-Tomei sump baffle kit

-Mines rocker cover baffle set

-Genuine Gasket set

-Tomei metal gasket set

- ACL Race Bearings to mains and Rods

Recondition Cylinder head

Bore Hone and face block

Plus Labour to remove engine, strip, reassemble, clearance for bearings, ring gaps etc, refit to vehicle

There's a $6500-$7k build right there.

When does the noise occur? What sort of noise? and when you took it there, was it because it had a noise you wanted to be identified?

When does the noise occur? - Even on idle now. It was a light tap when accelerating but slowly got worse.

What sort of noise? - Yer light a knocking sound.

when you took it there, was it because it had a noise you wanted to be identified? - Yes thats the reason i went there

Cheers

While were on the subject what turbos would you go with this set up as ill be changing them at the same time? Was looking at some N1s but i guess seeing as the engine will be built it could take a bit more power now?

While were on the subject what turbos would you go with this set up as ill be changing them at the same time? Was looking at some N1s but i guess seeing as the engine will be built it could take a bit more power now?

Sorry to hear the bad news man! All the best in fixing it up.

More power means you need a better driveline and fuel system to support, adds up to more $$$. Considering you are up for $10k already.

Ok, assuming you've got a stocker with exhaust and semi decent intake, here is a rough idea;

Clutch (jap twin plate); $2000

Injectors: around $750 mark second hand or about $1200 new

Fuel pump: 044, CRD sell them for $280. Filter also required, do a search on this subject

FPR: $190

Splitfire coilpacks: $645

Radiator: $300 for a china special, $900 for a jap brand

Radiator hoses: $200 or so, silicon

Hard pipe kit: $600 ish

Proper hose clamps: About $100

FMIC: At least $1000 for jap (not required for 350kw atw, anymore and generally required)

Camshafts: $1200

Cam gears: $300

New turbos: Dash 7 or 5, both about $2500

Dump pipes: Tomei $1000 or so (stock is ok to the high 300kw mark)

Oil pump: N1 $550

Head restrictor: $20

Oil return from head: $100

N1 Water pump: $330ish

Labour: Left arm, right leg and your first born.

Clutch (jap twin plate); $2000 - Already have

Injectors: around $750 mark second hand or about $1200 new Already have 700 cc SARDs

Fuel pump: 044, CRD sell them for $280. Filter also required, do a search on this subject

FPR: $190 Already have Nismo Fuel Pump

Splitfire coilpacks: $645 Only Standered ones

Radiator: $300 for a china special, $900 for a jap brand Already have

Radiator hoses: $200 or so, silicon Dont Have

Hard pipe kit: $600 ish Dont have

Proper hose clamps: About $100

FMIC: At least $1000 for jap (not required for 350kw atw, anymore and generally required) Already have Trust

Camshafts: $1200

Cam gears: $300 Already have Tomei

New turbos: Dash 7 or 5, both about $2500 Buying, Thats what i need to know ones for around 350 +

Dump pipes: Tomei $1000 or so (stock is ok to the high 300kw mark) deciding.. looking around tho

Oil pump: N1 $550 All in build

Head restrictor: $20 All in build

Oil return from head: $100 All in build

N1 Water pump: $330ish All in build

Plus have the power fc, profex b 2

Ok, assuming you've got a stocker with exhaust and semi decent intake, here is a rough idea;

Clutch (jap twin plate); $2000

Injectors: around $750 mark second hand or about $1200 new

Fuel pump: 044, CRD sell them for $280. Filter also required, do a search on this subject

FPR: $190

Splitfire coilpacks: $645

Radiator: $300 for a china special, $900 for a jap brand

Radiator hoses: $80 or so, silicon

Hard pipe kit: $600 ish

Proper hose clamps: About $100

FMIC: At least $1000 for jap (not required for 350kw atw, anymore and generally required)

Cam gears: $300

New turbos: Dash 7 or 5, both about $2200

Dump pipes: Tomei $1000 or so (stock is ok to the high 300kw mark)

Oil pump: N1 $499

Head restrictor: $30

Oil return from head: $150

Water pump: $100ish

Labour - $1700-2200

I fixed a couple of things and added your expected labour charges.

ok this might be a stupid statement but is it worth me trying to get a crate motor? LIke an N1 ? etc

very stupid :D

crate motors still have all the inherrant problems that RB26's have... with oil flow, bearings and so on.

Hence really the money put into a proper full build is always better spent in my view.

10k is easy to eat. Once you add in turbos and everything else you'll see it'll be 15k quite easily (mine was around that).

Especially with the dollar not so good, it has added some extra cost to it all.

However dont be hasty and decide to change turbos etc just because, more power you chase the more stuff you'll break later (gearboxes, diffs and so on)

go back to the tuner, blame him for the bearing problem. Besides he should have told you to turn it off quicker and it could have been avoided and its his fault. Make him pay for your new engine and re-tune your new engine too! even though he was at fault for breaking your car.

lol where have i heard that before?

Steve-o - you have a fair few things you 'dont need' neccesarily on there... hard pipe kit and that kinda thing.

The first list posted i also agree (as others have said), around a 7k build and is a good reliable one for 350rwkw.

You can save money even on that as not all the parts in there are required by any means.

Adz - how about you post up a budget, and a overall power aim???

Then people can help you do a few lists and that kinda thing a bit easier if there are some constraints.

another package is.....

* NITTO 4340 billet steel I-beam conrods with ARP 2000 series rod bolts

* JE 2816 aluminium alloy forged piston set with premuim ring sets

* NITTO high volume oil pump

* ACL race series main and rod bearings

* Genuine Nissan full gasket kit

* NITTO drag series dual bore seal metal head gasket

Yer mate, will be putting in a call to Dirt Garge

cheers!

go the JE over the CP's for sure as for the rest of the list its really up to you. As for rods NItto/spool/ART all the same, used all three in sr's and RB's with no issues, nice and cheap too. I HATE acl race bearings and prefer to use king in all my engines.

Edited by URAS
Ok heres the parts list

-New Crank

-CP forged pistons

-Eagle Conrods

-Gates racing timing belt

-Tomei sump baffle kit

-Mines rocker cover baffle set

-Genuine Gasket set

-Tomei metal gasket set

- ACL Race Bearings to mains and Rods

Recondition Cylinder head

Bore Hone and face block

Plus Labour to remove engine, strip, reassemble, clearance for bearings, ring gaps etc, refit to vehicle

Is the new crank 100 % necessary ?

It may be salvageable

go the JE over the CP's for sure as for the rest of the list its really up to you. As for rods NItto/spool/ART all the same, used all three in sr's and RB's with no issues, nice and cheap too. I HATE acl race bearings and prefer to use king in all my engines.

Any reason for not liking ACL Race series? or is it just a personal preference? And are you referring to the King Alloys?

id be putting a DECENT oil pump on it, tomei at the very least

whilst ur getting the head reco'd, may aswell get them to tickle the ports

u only need 1 gasket set :P acl kit or if u want to put some boost into it get the tomei kit (for the better head gasket)

match port all the pipes/ports whilst its apart

mahle pistons are still fairly cheap

bite ur nails waiting for the next 3 months to get it back :D

Yer thanks guys... Decideong on a way to go at the mo... not going to rush into it. Just getting quotes back etc as we speak.

As for power aim 350kws would be enough... So yer still looking at turbo ideas for that to get it easily.

And as far as budget $10,000 would have to be it... wouldnt want to much more then that. But the closer to the $7000 to $10000 bracket the better!

Its not a race car, drag car etc.. Its just a daily

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...