Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wonder if you can get electric cam gears, map them to load points in the tune. Now that would allow for some very good gains. Basically be an aftermarket VCT/VVTi

Only problem is you'd probably need a motec to tune it effectively.

HKS VCAM ?

Yep BWRGTR - cam gears ;)

Less than $300 even :)

Wonder if you can get electric cam gears, map them to load points in the tune. Now that would allow for some very good gains. Basically be an aftermarket VCT/VVTi

Only problem is you'd probably need a motec to tune it effectively.

Just use a NEO head, poormans HKS V-Cam :3some:

Obviously doesnt work as well, but you still get the VCT bonus.

Only issue is you need adaptor for the NEO head to get the 26 plenum and so on (and some porting)

Well it helps with the lower end, which is the ole sticking point of the RB26 in many respects and lets you get the top end also!

So for the cost it's not "too" bad if you are doing a build given you sell off your head etc.

Of course lovely v-cam would be the best option, but @ around 5k... it's not the most affordable solution

Yeah might as well just get a completely different 6 cylinder for that price that already has those sort of features built into it. Pretty sure the VQ35/37 do it.

But then God would send a great flood to punish you for your sins and yeah Nismoid is right, if you know where to look you can get HKS or OS GIKEN cam gears for 300 ish.

Edited by Nee-san
  • 2 weeks later...

For the Turbo Guru's out there when we are referring to the -9's are they the GT2859R-707160-9 model that Garret Lists

I am trying to get pricing on a pair for a GTR

I know the -5's and -7s are the GT2860R - 707160-5 & GT2860R - 707160-7

thanks for the help.

Should I be doing turbos on my new car? its got 80,000 on the clock and I was going to take it into Trent to do power fc / cam gears timing belt service / and basic stage one mods.. would you guys recommend I get trent to do turbos at the same time? how much roughly extra would it cost and am I right in saying it would make about 80kw atw difference?

edit: sorry if i seem noob new the the rb26 game :P

250rwkw is around what you'd expect stock turbps, and then 300rwkw on a unbuilt motor which is nice and safe

overall cost would be around 4k for the lot including turbos/labour/fitting/gaskets etc.

thats not including front pipes (if you don't already have them done, thats more cost)

Should I be doing turbos on my new car? its got 80,000 on the clock and I was going to take it into Trent to do power fc / cam gears timing belt service / and basic stage one mods.. would you guys recommend I get trent to do turbos at the same time? how much roughly extra would it cost and am I right in saying it would make about 80kw atw difference?

edit: sorry if i seem noob new the the rb26 game :P

If you're going to put new pair of turbos, you may as well do the clutch while you're at it (unless you've got one already).

As for you putting the turbos, it all depends whether your standard turbos have sign of letting go or you're power hungry that standard turbo couldn't provide.

That said I've got GT-SS in mine and at 302rwkw it may sound fun but I want more.

Yes Ash is spot on around $4-6k is what you'd be looking at upgrading to bigger turbos.

I should really put up my dyno sheet.

For the Turbo Guru's out there when we are referring to the -9's are they the GT2859R-707160-9 model that Garret Lists

I am trying to get pricing on a pair for a GTR

I know the -5's and -7s are the GT2860R - 707160-5 & GT2860R - 707160-7

thanks for the help.

Also looking to find the answer for this. Trying to buy the HKS GT-SS equivalent

Depends on who's site you use. Garrett changed labelling a while ago as well which didnt help so some sites are not updated.

Seems at times American sites have them labelled differently as well.

The GCG link is correct in AUS.

Well I'll be buying them from MTQ here in Adelaide. Guess I'll just ask for Garrett GT2560 -9 /707160 - 9 then push the point that I want the HKS GT-SS equivalants for my GT-R. Hopefully they order the right ones.

Just give em the cartridge number, always get the right one that way.

Shop around, I've found MTQ sometimes to not be the cheapest (same for GCG)

prices seem to vary as much as $100 place to place.

Getting them for about $1,200 per turbo so I doubt I'll find them cheaper.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...