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Instead of waiting for someone probably best you do some reading to figure it out like most others have or talk to someone who really knows what they are talking about.

It is even easier to sit back and demand someone provide evidence (for what is a fact) to satisfy someones skepticism.

ohhh ....cry me a river!!! end of discussion.

easy to criticise is in it mate - on the other hand no one has come with any / provided me with any real evidence to convince me otherwise i.e.back to back testing to determine if this is accurate or just a myth.

 

Instead of waiting for someone probably best you do some reading to figure it out like most others have or talk to someone who really knows what they are talking about.

 

It is even easier to sit back and demand someone provide evidence (for what is a fact) to satisfy someones skepticism.

No worth it just leave it alone.

So back on topic. End of the day it's personal preference right? With a built engine you have the option of more response with the -9s as to bigger top end with -5s?

xGTRx what power are you pushing and what supporting mods do you have with the -5s? (And when are they at full boost) if you don't mind answering?

So back on topic. End of the day it's personal preference right? With a built engine you have the option of more response with the -9s as to bigger top end with -5s?

xGTRx what power are you pushing and what supporting mods do you have with the -5s? (And when are they at full boost) if you don't mind answering?

Hey mate I really don't know all my specs. All I know I have a fully forged balance blueprinted bottom end, oil pump, upgraded fuel system surge tank, injectors rail regulator, head work cams, radiator, intercooler, oil cooler 9L sump, hks dumps, front pipe. Power I think is about 370 to 420 I think. Don't really care about dyno figures as dynos are just tuning tool, I will see what the power is when I run it down the quarter. But it's been tuned for midrange more than top end. As I said before if I drive it hard when I change gears I am still on boost.

As for opinions, mine doesn't matter, yours does and need to experience different setups to see which one you like and build it. My only real advice is find an rb engine builder that can organise their customer's cars for you to experience and then say what you want and then let them do their job. Hope this helps.

Ants is right, lag and no responsiveness should be a crime or atleast punishable under the anti gay laws.

It's beyond me why the hell people r so intent on makin there car run like a pig, and if people can't comprehend more lag and less bottom end power with a bigger exhaust including the size of the turbine housing then theres not much hope 4 that person really.

As R31Nismoid pointed out on the 1st page, GTR aren't much fun for anything under 140km/h and by the time it's reached you've well and truly lost ya license, so to make it even laggier defeats common sense specially 4 the street!

Why do u think the discopotato (2860rs) is so famous on an SR20 makin only 220/230rwkw...cuz that bich fries the tyres on tap all day up to fourth like it's nobodies business! rwkw on a dyno is just a final powerfigure, usually when u gain something in the top end, it means youve lost power and or torque down low, and lag is horrible!

If your goin balls deep in drag racing or racing, then yes u might consider a laggier setup for the benifit off top end performance. but Street and racing are 2 completely different things, i feel like i'm stating the obvious

Back on topic and the -7/9s either of them with e85 and cam gears is an insanely quick street car making more power then ya ever need to get to the fish n' chip shop

  • Like 2

- 5s on a built 26 with cams is the best all-around setup hands down. It's got torque under boost for daily driving, it's got good midrange and it will be on boost with gear changing at about 7k for quarter mile and circuit fun. And if you want to be a d%kh!ad on the street you can do that in an I 20 mate. One question disco have you driven a set up mentioned above?

-7s on mine and loved it, i use to race go-karts and alwatys loved that instant power rather then waiting which i hate. Went in my mates rb24 with a T88 he put the foot down off boost and a gemini would of passed us, but when it came on it snapped my neck in half lol

One question do u really need cams? I've been told that the rb26 responds super well to camgears, but if u change the camshafts to u need to upgrade the springs and other stuff and it becomes heller expensive. Also cam shafts usually cost u low down torque at the expense of more top end power, so camshafts aren't neccesary for street/drift

- 5s on a built 26 with cams is the best all-around setup hands down. It's got torque under boost for daily driving, it's got good midrange and it will be on boost with gear changing at about 7k for quarter mile and circuit fun. And if you want to be a d%kh!ad on the street you can do that in an I 20 mate. One question disco have you driven a set up mentioned above?

You make 20psi daily driving?

Daily driving my GTR - wouldn't be seeing over 4,000rpm a hell of a lot... And 20psi on -5s isnt going to be in before then... Add cams in and it's only going to be doughier down low (25000-4000), making it even worse to daily.

Anyway said it plenty of times. Had -9s, had -5s... For a street driver and some hills, I'd never got -5s again.

At disco: so i assume you have never driven a gtr with the above mentioned setup?

At Nismoid: Full boost at 4000 but obviously enough boost in the daily driving range to keep up with traffic and overtake when i need to. On freeways in 5th overtake without changing gears with ease.

As mentioned previously

' I drive it daily and love that it's off boost in traffic and starts coming on at a higher rev range. I would hate boost coming on too early. BUT when I want to drive the car then I hold it between 4 and 7-8 and she is a rocket and no lag when it matters'

i suppose each persons idea of a perfect set up is different, that's why before making a choice on a build a person must experience different setups and then choose and not rely on other peoples opinions including my own.

Edited by XGTRX

a guy posted the other day 350rwkw with -9s, so why anyone would need any more power then that i'm not sure. Another guy made 306rwkw on -7s with 3.5" exhaust and cam gears on pump. So with e85 and step 1 cam shafts it would make about 330rwkw, again thats insane given the response of the -7s, not to mention there stock N1 turbos so no trouble with defects! Clean/stock under the hood, the stealth way :cheers:

Each to there own

  • Like 1

I've personally done 5's on stock stroke. f**k that. 9's are where it's at for a daily driver. If you want bahnstorming low mounts then go 5's but like its been said a million times, they ain't fun below 4 ton on a stock stroke.

  • Like 1

a guy posted the other day 350rwkw with -9s, so why anyone would need any more power then that i'm not sure. Another guy made 306rwkw on -7s with 3.5" exhaust and cam gears on pump. So with e85 and step 1 cam shafts it would make about 330rwkw, again thats insane given the response of the -7s, not to mention there stock N1 turbos so no trouble with defects! Clean/stock under the hood, the stealth way :cheers:

Each to there own

Was All wheel kw and 98 ;)

  • Like 1

I've personally done 5's on stock stroke. f**k that. 9's are where it's at for a daily driver. If you want bahnstorming low mounts then go 5's but like its been said a million times, they ain't fun below 4 ton on a stock stroke.

You can't have fun on the street with any setup on a gtr doesn't matter if you at full boost at 3.5 or 4k. And the idea that there is no boost below 4k is just not true it is progressive from way down and more than enough for daily driving. But at the track or strip the 'bahnstorming low mounts' are heaven.

As I have always said each to their own, diversity of opinion makes life beautiful.

a guy posted the other day 350rwkw with -9s, so why anyone would need any more power then that i'm not sure. Another guy made 306rwkw on -7s with 3.5" exhaust and cam gears on pump. So with e85 and step 1 cam shafts it would make about 330rwkw, again thats insane given the response of the -7s, not to mention there stock N1 turbos so no trouble with defects!  Clean/stock under the hood, the stealth way :cheers:

 

Each to there own

Engine bay looks stock that's why people go low mounts.

I haven't even touched the hi setting on my -9's yet - 16PSI and 280 odd KW on low is more then enough on Sydney roads for me

Right foot governs your speed not the car.

Plus it's easier to drive in traffic with -5s that are boosting aggressively from 4k which you never hit in traffic.

Edited by XGTRX

At disco: so i assume you have never driven a gtr with the above mentioned setup?

At Nismoid: Full boost at 4000 but obviously enough boost in the daily driving range to keep up with traffic and overtake when i need to. On freeways in 5th overtake without changing gears with ease.

As mentioned previously

' I drive it daily and love that it's off boost in traffic and starts coming on at a higher rev range. I would hate boost coming on too early. BUT when I want to drive the car then I hold it between 4 and 7-8 and she is a rocket and no lag when it matters'

i suppose each persons idea of a perfect set up is different, that's why before making a choice on a build a person must experience different setups and then choose and not rely on other peoples opinions including my own.

"Full boost at 4000" - what's full boost? 5 psi or 35 psi? "Full boost (unless pressure stated) at x" should have an auto correct on this forum. It means sweet FA!

As for not making any grunt low end due to the 2.6 and city driving, throttle control?

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