Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, looking to buy a rear wing for my circuit car as i have read on other threads that they are a must. Having troube sorting the autosalon stuff from the fuctional wings that will actually work. Any help from those that run a wing on there car would be much apreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254544-circuit-racing-rear-wings/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Stuart,,,I would think most people here wouldn't actually know a good wing from a bad one. Me included.

But from what little experience I have I would go for a dual plane fully adjustable one.

The autosalon ones are crapo,,,all they induce is loads too much downforce which equates to front understeer or no help at all.

The V8 supercar ones are little more than a compromise for parity.

I would suggest you go have a look at some top line national sports sedans and F3 cars.

post-29-1233138552_thumb.jpg

post-29-1233138654_thumb.jpg

post-29-1233138976_thumb.jpg

I know these are Radical rears but they give you an idea of what is required.

Neil.

LOL i just purchased one as well for the same objective.. to obtain some downforce on the rears.... BUT.... as pointed out, i need to re-enforce the mounting location otherwise the area will 'flex' under the pressure before transferring the downforce to the rears/tyres.....

That said mine is a jap band (Diecock-yes hilarious name) adjustable wing.... but functionality of it.. will wait and see.....

My noob 2c worth

found this on just-japs web page. its twin aero-foil and looks to be adjustable on both planes, its cheap which makes me think it might be more for pretty. Ill have to have a look at it 2morro. Its also weird as its called a Drift-wing. I thought you would be looking to loose rear down force when drifting ie no wing, or i have no idea lol.

post-20078-1233142054_thumb.jpg

No Ando you nut-case. What I'm saying is if you load the rears up with too much down force you will lose front grip,,,hence understeer.

Reason I posted is at Wakefield in my old sports sedan,,,I ran without the front splitter and the big rear wing straight,,,the car still wanted to take-off through turn 1 which I would normally take flat.

I know this is an extreme case but it does give everybody an idea of what happens.

Neil.

speaking of wings Neil, i remember that afternoon i came up to watch you race at OP and there was an old Toyota crown racing. It had a home made wing consisting of two pieces of form ply as the uprights and something else across the midle, the thing was quick, just looked funny. K-mart lol. but seemed to work.

No Ando you nut-case. What I'm saying is if you load the rears up with too much down force you will lose front grip,,,hence understeer.

Reason I posted is at Wakefield in my old sports sedan,,,I ran without the front splitter and the big rear wing straight,,,the car still wanted to take-off through turn 1 which I would normally take flat.

I know this is an extreme case but it does give everybody an idea of what happens.

Neil.

Stuart,,,I love Just Jap and they have looked after me for years but that is not a race cars spoiler.

Look at the end plates and then look at a race car end plates.

Yes thats a drift car spoiler that looks great but does very little. thats why it's a drift spoiler.

The old guy,,,nice old bloke in the crown and his mate in the alfa/rotor,,,,great old guy's that you might what to talk to. Shit I do.

Neil.

I can't see any of the off the shelf wings being terribly efficient. its much easier to create drag than downforce, and its quite difficult to create downforce efficiently - ie with minimal drag. you could easily loose more straight line speed than you pick up in the corners.

I haven't noticed (or maybe I just didn't pay any attention to) any threads on SAU about wings on track cars, but I have seen a thread recently on another forum of people saying they noticed a big difference in traction out of corners when they fit a wing to their cars, but they never seem to mention any lap time improvements to back up their 'feel' so the sceptic in me believes its all placebo effect.

My 2c is to concentrate on optimising mechanical grip first and only look at aero when that area is highly developed.

on a kind of related note, I've already had someone tell me the first thing I should do to my sil80 is add canards to the front bar to create downforce like on his car because it made a huge difference to its handling. I suggested that as his bar was held on by zip ties, the fact that it doesn't just get torn off suggests his canards aren't really generating much meaningful downforce. placebo effect...

..My 2c is to concentrate on optimising mechanical grip first and only look at aero when that area is highly developed.

Yeah great advice, aero only really comes into play at higher speeds anyway.

Your better off increasing rear grip with either increased track, better suspension or better tyres.

Plus if your going to fit a proper rear wing, it has to be attached directly to the body which is quite a modification. Otherwise the boot travel just absorbs most of the downforce the rear wing is making.

I Have a single foil one made by Arc, it seems to do the job, looks ok and not too autosalon..

i know when i take it off and drive quickly the ass feels like its floating around and under brakes it gets a bit loose

i'm sure i should work out how to properly adjust it tho

I used to run a C-West wing on my car, but never on the track. I was defected for it years ago, so took it off and sold it to a mate of mine. His car is very similar to mine, and runs similar times around the track. I went for a spin in his car at Sandown and the rear end definately felt more planted on entry into turn 1, and I'm convinced enough to put one back on in conjunction with front and rear splitters.

I ended up buying another C-West Aluminium wing after unsuccessfuly searching for a V8 supercar item, and I'm going to have it mounted to the chassis. I'm sure it will have an effect, but whether it is a positive one I'll have to wait and see.

Old Wing

post-8405-1233186356_thumb.jpg

New wing

alumi2S15.JPG

Wing is the last thing I will buy for my race car. I think the money can go into other areas that will give you more return in performance. Also will a wing make up for the loss of straight line speed.

They dont take effect unitil very high speeds. It will have to be mounted very high for it to work on a Skyline.

Undertray is a must, even rear undertray is good.

Ash

Dane I'm not sure how effective the wing pictured (your old one) would be... the airflow over the back of the 180 would probably stay attached to the car until the very edge of the boot meaning no real flow over the wing (mostly under)... however if the wing was mounted higher than the roof it would catch the unattached airflow over the car

most serious circuit cars have the wing high up above the roofline of the car for this reason...

Edit: ah beat me to the punch re. height kingscorp!

Dane I'm not sure how effective the wing pictured (your old one) would be... the airflow over the back of the 180 would probably stay attached to the car until the very edge of the boot meaning no real flow over the wing (mostly under)... however if the wing was mounted higher than the roof it would catch the unattached airflow over the car

most serious circuit cars have the wing high up above the roofline of the car for this reason...

Edit: ah beat me to the punch re. height kingscorp!

Yeah close but no cigar! :blush:

The underside of the wing is just as important as the top side. You need both high and low pressure for a wing to work. High pressure on the top and low pressure on the bottom, therfore you get a push/pull effect. A aircraft works on the opposite principle.

This is why the wing needs to be high so you get air on both sides.

Ash

The mate I sold it to mounted it on his S14, so not as sloped as the rear hatch of my car which is why I think it works quite well on his car, and the reason why I bought this new one which will sit a lot higher than the old one :blush:

Yeah close but no cigar! :blush:

The underside of the wing is just as important as the top side. You need both high and low pressure for a wing to work. High pressure on the top and low pressure on the bottom, therfore you get a push/pull effect. A aircraft works on the opposite principle.

This is why the wing needs to be high so you get air on both sides.

Ash

isn't that what I said? (all the airflow under, none over) I'm fairly certain I understand how wings work;) the high/low pressure is caused by the difference in speed the air passes by each side of the wing due to its shape

yeah it would have been better on an S14 Dane, not perfect cos the air would have been pretty turbulent

isn't that what I said? (all the airflow under, none over) I'm fairly certain I understand how wings work;) the high/low pressure is caused by the difference in speed the air passes by each side of the wing due to its shape

yeah it would have been better on an S14 Dane, not perfect cos the air would have been pretty turbulent

Sorry, I miss read your post :blush:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...