Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 138
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

?? NISMO - Nissan Motor Sport OEM supplier, so direct fit for R34GT-T.

I'm not trying to pedal anything, just saying that that bloke made a mistake when he said that R34 NISMO injectors were 440cc that's all.

I'm not trying jam them down anyones throat, just trying to help out with some options. :)

Fair call, I'm just trying to figure out if there is a larger equivalent that came factory fitted to another engine. I can't justify near on $1k for an extra 100cc's for my daily :)

Deutschworks?

Does anyone know how big 350Z injectors are? being a 3.5L engine I'm hopinh they're bigger than 370cc..

From memory they're about 300cc....not big at all, as some zed people are using the R34 Blue 370's as upgrades.

I've been more than happy with the deatschwerks injectors, I've got the obsolete 550's the newer 600's replaced them on their site last year, they're 100% drop-ins

I remember asking the question about the XR6T injectors a while back, never actually found out though :)

480cc'S can go more then 242 kws cant they

from memory i pulled 215 from stocko ones would 100cc really be only 30kws more

(oh mines currently at 244Kws (have run 248Kws) with nismos and I could have sworn they were not maxing out yet )

Well my stag is making nearly 240awkw on stockers, they were pretty much maxed at ~260awkw and there was still a few psi left in the turbo which is why I'm looking for something a little bit larger :)

Edited by bubba

ok, blitz made good ones but discontinued, so pretty much forget about those. One wrecker i think in SA has some second hand ones but for about $1200

Nismo are the ONLY drop in ones, 4 hole spray pattern, $1200-$1300 delivered, stupidly expensive and rare as hens teeth to find second hand, trust me, i was looking for a while until a set turned up on ebay. And what do you know, someone on SAU is selling a set :banana:

Sard aren't straight drop in like the Nismo's, and frankly, don't have that brilliant a rep compared to the Nismo's.

Other options then become...

GTR injectors (need fuel rail and possibly resistor packs)

HKS fuel rail which gives you more options

Hi flows - done here locally or done via deutchworks, some people love them, some people hate them. RC Engineering in the states could probably also rustle up some hi-flows.

Then, i was going to go with ANOTHER option until i found the Nismo's. A guy in Melbourne was advertising converting side feed to top feed, using these billet aluminium bungs or something. I asked if he could go the OTHER way, top feed to side feed. Because if us NEO'ers went to side feed we'd have a ZILLION options. He doesn't see why you couldn't go top to side, but i never followed through with it cos i found the Nismo's.

I know there's no OEM info, but that's pretty much what i found out with after market options for the NEO, and yes it's VERY limited if you don't want hi-flows or get fiddly with new fuel rails.

I reckon someone should give the top-side feed conversion a shot, cos surely then there would be a lot more options available.

I had actually toyed with the idea of putting the R33 inlet runners on the Neo head and just using R33 side feeds on the stock rail....but I never got around to confirming the stud patterns matched up, anyone care to check it out?

Yeah thats the one, i got them ones highflowed to 555cc.

You had 350Z injectors hiflowed?

Also, anyone know if a 26 fuel rail will bolt up to the intake manifold? or could be made to bolt up? a fuel rail is just a fuel rail afterall.. and being able to use GTR injectors means I could then also use hand-me-downs from my 30!

Edited by bubba
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey ppl's I'm still working on this little project. just waiting on a bit of cashola to come through.

can any 1 confirm if Neo Rb25 heads have the same injector spacing and mounting positions as a non NEO RB25 head?

also do R33's run the same style stock FPR. as i want to retain the stock FPR?

regards

Chris

you are a dingis . have you not read anything about this sublect at all ?

You sir are a Dingis for using the word Dingis. LOL

I am very confused at why u think this is such a stupid non thought out project.

Was it the part where I'm going to use cheap common injectors or the part were i asked if Neo and non Neo's had the same spacing between injectors.

Whether they be top feed or side feed is irrelevant.

Please explain where I have gone very very wrong?

regards

Chris

Edited by urtwhistle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...