Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

im personally not into fog lights being used as indicators , seems abit early 90s to me that is....

so ive re-wired my front side lights (first stage low beam i think their refered to as)

now i just need to figure out what the wattage difference is as they seem to blink fast now , im guessing due to the light not being the right wattage?? i could be wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255505-using-r33-side-lights-as-indicators/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

lol these fools waste there time saying search this when they could just link or answer the question in the same time spent..

anyways a mates having the same problem blinkers flashing fast and wouldnt mind it fixed...

Or maybe search "indicator" and you will find your answer, i would not have a clue how to insert a link so if someone says search something and gives you a reference use it. Don't be a nob.

search pulled up nothing mate and who has time to go threw 50 topics with the word indicator in them..obviously if the person says search he or she knows were the answer lies so why not just post it up...

instead of being "a nob"

inserting a link is as easy as cutting it from the url bar in your browser and pasting it in your reply..

Edited by thizzle

im sure the fast blinking is caused by the relay seing incorrect wattage consumption, the question is, what is the correct wattage consumption for each bulb... i think it may be easier to call repco and pretend ur buying bulbs for your skyline (rather then trying to find the answer on here as seen above)

  • 3 weeks later...

you can wire in resisters or another set of globes in line, hidden in the car to fix the correct watt level.

I can't remember which way I went as I did this mod in 2002 or 2003. fixed my fast blinking problem for my parker light indercator swap!

Edited by nizmokid

i tried resistors and had no luck...

as for tutorial....

- get indicator wires - cut

- get parker wires - cut

- thread indicator wires through to parker wire place

- splice indicator wires onto parker globes and insulate

- put in 21w globes with orange sleeves/dye

- done

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...