Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a Nismo G-Max twin platted clutch for sale (originally I thought this was a coppermix, it's not, it's a G-MAX one).

It does need rebuilding and this can be done through NPC if requested for me to have it rebuilt for you.

It's come out of a R33 GTR Skyline.

This is a pull type clutch and will fit into any R33 & R34 GT-R Skyline or can have it built to a R34 GTT Skyline.

Asking $1500 for this which includes the rebuild.

or $700 as it is not rebuilt.

Postage to anywhere in Australia is about $50.

The rebuild will be built to handle anywhere up to 1000HP.

These clutches come stock with the ability to handle around 700-750HP.

Want to sell this as soon as possible. It's located here in Brisbane.

Interested?? PM ME!!!!

Edited by JJay
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255559-fs-nismo-g-max-twin-platted-clutch/
Share on other sites

My offer of $1000 is still on the table as thats what you quoted me

I accepted that when I thought it was a nismo coppermix one which is what I got told it was from the previous owner.

After taking it to NPC, they told me it was actually a G-MAX one, far better then the coppermix one itself.

No way am I paying near $900 for the rebuild and only making $100 from the clutch when it's worth more then that.

so this is the same clutch you were selling for $1000. for a min there i thought you were selling 2.

No, not the same one.

Originally I thought it was a coppermix clutch as that what was told to me by the guy who sold me the car with the clutch.

Since taking it out and having it looked at, it's actually a NISMO G-MAX clutch, not a coppermix clutch.

The G-MAX clutch is far better then the coppermix clutch and it does cost more.

NPC told me that these are valued at around $3000-$3200 brand new.

Also been told stock, they hold anywhere between 700-750hp.

So asking $1500 for it rebuilt (it's costing nearly $900 to have it rebuilt by NPC) isn't much considering your practically getting a brand new nismo g-max clutch!

I've actually asked for the coppermix clutch thread's to be deleted since I do not have a coppermix clutch to sell.

Edited by JJay

bloody hell u guys...it is what it is...a good price for a good clutch, if you dont like it then stop complinaing and dont buy it.

bump for a good price and a good lutch.

I'd like to know where you got the idea that a G-Max is far better than a Super Coppermix clutch.

based on the information i've been given by both a mechanic and NPC themselves.

And also whey the rebuild price doubled...... i don't understand how the rebuild price can be that different

Go ring NPC and ask for the price on the rebuild of the nismo g-max clutch and then come back to me.

the price i'm getting for the rebuild is at trade price, you ring up and they'll charge you through the roof (probably near or just over a grand for the rebuild).

Just because your pissed that I changed the price on the clutch doesn't mean you can come in here and start causing shit. If I knew it was a G-MAX clutch in the first place, then I would of advertised it as that. But since the person who sold it to me miss-informed me of what clutch was actually in there, it was initally advertised as the coppermix one.

No way will I sell the clutch for $1000 including the rebuild. That just means I'm paying near $900 for the rebuild and only making $100 from it. Seriously think about what your offering there.

Got a Nismo G-Max twin platted clutch for sale (originally I thought this was a coppermix, it's not, it's a G-MAX one).

It does need rebuilding and this can be done through NPC if requested for me to have it rebuilt for you.

It's come out of a R33 GTR Skyline.

This is a pull type clutch and will fit into any R33 & R34 GT-R Skyline or can have it built to a R34 GTT Skyline.

Asking $1500 for this which includes the rebuild.

or $700 as it is not rebuilt.

Postage to anywhere in Australia is about $50.

The rebuild will be built to handle anywhere up to 1000HP.

These clutches come stock with the ability to handle around 700-750HP.

Want to sell this as soon as possible. It's located here in Brisbane.

Interested?? PM ME!!!!

Dude, still waiting for my refund for the fuel pump i didn't receive. What's going on??

Still have this for sale and I want it gone.

Make me a reasonable offer to consider.

This clutch is great for upgrades with R33 & R34 GTR's & R34 GTT's.

is this push or pull clutch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...