Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Direct Clutch Service

4 Bimbil St

Albion

QLD, 4010

Australia

Ph: (07) 3862 2680

Fax: (07) 3262 9250

Mobile: 0412 032 829

These guys can supply any custom clutch combination. Just say what you want and they can build it. I had a co-worker fit a custom heavy duty organic Exedy/Daiken clutch using OE Nissan hardware on his 180SX with great success. Slightly more bite on take off, with same pedal feel. Try these guys. If they can supply a clutch for the famous twin turbo V8 JUDGE ute and Gicattolo (spelling?) then they sure know what they are doing. Cheap too.

They are also regulars at the Jamboree and other meets at Willowbank.

man i'am glad i found this thread.

On the way to the velocity autosports cruise today my clutch started slipping in 3rd and on the way home back to newcastle it slipped in 3rd,4th and 5th

and thanks to all you guys i now know what clutch to get.

note: the car only has 68,000kms on it and i have only had it for say 4 weeks.. is this odd?

Ive had the daiken organic sports clutch kit put in, and wanted to ask a few questions as i cant remember from my last clutch.

Ive only done 200km with it so far, and its started to raise a little from the original postion, personally i don't like this, but i take it this is normal?

Havn't done anything 'bad' with the clutch yet, though ive reved it out in a few gears (not from 1st), this doesn't pose any harm?

Whats the expected bed in process for an organic clutch? They're ment to be much faster than a brass etc?

It seems as though you guys know enough about clutches so, do any of you know if the R34 clutch is the same [or compatible with] the R33 one?

I am looking to buy the daikin / exedy sports organic clutch but so far I am having a hard time finding out if they make them for my car - in short, they dont in Oz at least - I have been talking to Daikin Oz all week...the only thing they can offer me off the shelf [which they think will fit] is called a Premium Duty clutch and will cost $800 just for the parts!!!

Now if 33 and 34 are the same then I will just get what you guys have got! I'm talking about GTT / GTST here, AFAIK 33 & 34 GTR are interchangable but not from gtr to gtst etc...

Sorry to hi-jack the thread - and if you guys dont know, I will start my own one ;)

Thanks guys.

Brody it took me about 1000km before the clutch felt good. For the first 3-4 days if I released the clutch quickly on down-shifts i'd nearly put my head through the window ;)

My friction point is quite low to the floor, if I get lazy at the lights I start to creep forward :D

Nah i took it fairly easy for the first 2-3wks, I never do burnouts or drop the clutch either which would preserve it quite abit.

You may just need to leave it be for 2wks and let it bed in and if your still not happy with the clutch position take it back and get them to adjust it.

Just some info on Daiken clutches that may be of interest to some. A friend of mine builds performance engines for early model datsuns and has been buying heavy duty clutches to suit through Nissan (he gets a very good deal as a volume buyer and he gets excellent warranty service....as you'll see).

Recently some customers have been coming back to him complaining the clutches have begun to slip after only a very few k's and abuse is definately not an issue. Investigation showed that the clutches had been manufactured by Daiken and measurements showed that the clamping pressure was well below the manufacturers claims. Daiken initially denied the problem, but after some months of pressure, inc from Nissan, they admitted the fault and replaced all the clutches free of charge (as they should, of course).

Now I'm not saying all Daiken clutches are like this - far from it - but its interesting to me to read some of the problems people have here. We now use the PBR version of this clutch with no problems...oh, and the trade price at Bursons for the heavy duty Patrol PN R173N clutch kit is $160 :(

[Note: I won't go into any further details on this - the matter has been sorted, that's it.

Mods: if I've over-stepped any boundaries here in terms of naming a company please modify post as you see fit]

I think the sports version is what i have in mine, I was told by the previous owner it was an Excedy clutch..

To be honest, that wouldn't surprise me.. I think mine has done less than 20,000km and while it doesn't slip *yet*, i have a feeling if i wound up the power, and give it a few more km, and it well could. At the moment its feeling fairly "floppy" or loose and not instilling confidence that its going to last many tens of thousands of km more. When i first got the car it was a lot stiffer, now it seems a lot less so. I don't think my driving style is /that/ bad.. I don't regularly drag it (of course do drive hard occasionally), but i do drive it nearly every day.

I can't say that it won't last another 50,000km, as i haven't shagged enough clutches to tell :( but going from the feel of when i got my car (when it should be fairly worn in), to how it feels now, it may not be a long lasting clutch.

btw: i have around 180rwkw

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...