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ok i just seen that my inner front cv joint boot is perished away and i can now see the bearing, anyone no where i can get a replacment asap.

i looked at these boots that split apart so you dont need to remove the axles to fit, but not too keen on em but if anyones used em and they seem ok ill use whatevas goin.

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ok i just seen that my inner front cv joint boot is perished away and i can now see the bearing, anyone no where i can get a replacment asap.

i looked at these boots that split apart so you dont need to remove the axles to fit, but not too keen on em but if anyones used em and they seem ok ill use whatevas goin.

This guy sells the complete cv joint for less than Nissan charges for the boot. He may also be able to supply the boot only. Send him a question quoting your engine no and other details he asks for and ask if he will post to AU. (if he doessn't but he has the item I could get it for you and post it but i am hoping he does because a number of other members have indicated interest). http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-201624551.htm

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  • 7 months later...

Hey Guys I have just replaced my front boots with local Kelpro units at $15ea.

Part no':

Inner: CIB-228

Outer: COB-057

Only point I would make is that there is not enough grease supplied for the inner if you ask me, so grab some extra.

post-65070-1254092231_thumb.jpg

post-65070-1254092262_thumb.jpg

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Hey Guys I have just replaced my front boots with local Kelpro units at $15ea.

Part no':

Inner: CIB-228

Outer: COB-057

Only point I would make is that there is not enough grease supplied for the inner if you ask me, so grab some extra.

how would you rate the difficulty of the job mate? i've never done cv's before, but will probably be looking at it in the not too distant future ;)

Edited by pyro-ns
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Ok Guys its all pretty straightforward to do, probably the only special tools you need are circlip pliers and a vice is handy.

Firstly remove the shafts, there is a good description here on pages 10 & 11

http://www.scribd.com/doc/4964854/GTR-Engine-Removal

You will also need to pop out the cup that is in the diff housing, a couple of large screrwdrivers should do the trick (carefully)

Next I usually cut off the old boots and give the shafts a good clean ready for new grease & boots.

Below shows the drivers side, the passenger side should be similar (I only needed to do my drivers side, but the passenger side looks to be exactly the same procedure). :whistling:

You need to remove the circlip that holds the bearing assy (part A) to the shaft (part B) in the pic below.

Remove part A from the shaft and you can now slip on your new boots.

Replace part A and circlip (grease the splines) and complete assembly as below.

This is just a matter of packing the bearings and cup with grease and fitting the new boots. Make sure there is no grease on the part of the boot that will be clamped to the shaft & cup (under where you tighten the stainless ties).

Tighten the stainless straps by stopping them rotating with a flat blade screwdriver whilst gripping the strap with locking pliers. Bend the strap over once, bend down the tabs to keep in place, and bend once again over the tabs and cut off the excess.

Reinstall the shaft in reverse order of taking it out.

I think this covers it if you get stuck on anything let me know.

Hope this helps.

Good Luck,

Jon.

post-65070-1254790947_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for posting that up mate :(

So after doing this im going to need an alignment by the looks of things yeah? When i got the outers on each side done previously at a mehcnaincs they said they do it so it didnt need an aligntment.....

Ideas?

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Thanks for posting that up mate :P

So after doing this im going to need an alignment by the looks of things yeah? When i got the outers on each side done previously at a mehcnaincs they said they do it so it didnt need an aligntment.....

Ideas?

In theory it shouldn't need an alignment as you're not actually adjusting your tie rods, just disconnecting them to remove the shafts and putting them back. Unless you have some really worn components, they should bolt back up in the same position they were in.

However I reckon it's always a good idea to have things re-aligned when you've done any suspension or steering work.

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Well im preping to do this in the next week or so. Wouldn't mind doing it tonight but I need to use the stag to go jetskiing tomorrow so might noit be a really good idea incase i dont get it back together... dont see why i wouldn't though..

Went to see my local repco for the boot. Qoted the Kelpro CIB 228. He matched it to a Repco unit they had in stock part number 100-039. Comes with straps and grease. Cost me $13.60 with my trade card.

Will post up how I go and might ask the woman to take photos while i do it so i can make a how to however i dont think shell like the idea of it.

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Well im preping to do this in the next week or so. Wouldn't mind doing it tonight but I need to use the stag to go jetskiing tomorrow so might noit be a really good idea incase i dont get it back together... dont see why i wouldn't though..

Went to see my local repco for the boot. Qoted the Kelpro CIB 228. He matched it to a Repco unit they had in stock part number 100-039. Comes with straps and grease. Cost me $13.60 with my trade card.

Will post up how I go and might ask the woman to take photos while i do it so i can make a how to however i dont think shell like the idea of it.

Good luck with the boot install. Let us know how the Repco unit fits, it's good to have alternative boot options that don't cost $100 or so each from Nissan!

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