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I bought my near stock r33 about 2 years ago with ~120k on the clock. Ran like clockwork for a year, only thing I needed to get was a new battery (and regular servicing of course). Then in the last year it's been falling apart! Gearbox died so I had to get that replaced and got a new clutch at the same time, had some issues with the coolant system and for the past 6+ months it has lost a heap of power and boosts like crap (not coilpacks/sparkplugs) so I'll eventually have to get that fixed too. It's really annoying because I hardly ever thrash it, wouldn't mind so much if I was actually abusing it! Then you get scum who vandilise your car so you have to pay to get that fixed because the insurance claims are too expensive. I still like my skyline though :( Just wish I could spend my money on upgrading it rather than fixing it all the time so I could take it to a track day!

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Ive been looking around for a skyline atm, heard different stories from people about how costly they are to run? if im not drifting dragging etc, i dont imagine itd be more then the normal car just for little things needing replacing here and there? or am i wrong?

cheers

Mate i just drove my r32 gtst from brisbane to perth and the car didn't miss a beat and the car aint standard - rb25det conv, hks 2530, pfc, pwr rad, plenam mod, splitfire coils, thermo's, 300rwhp etc. It gets great fuel economy when cruising along - about 10L/100kms around town and about 8.5L/100kms highway.

Ive had my car for 6yrs now and its always been reliable with a bit of help - always drive it gentlyish till its well up to op temp, ALWAYS use 98 octane fuel only, i change the oil every 5000kms, i use only genuine nissan coolant (recommended by richard at ARE), keep an ear out for ping under high load and drive it hard but not thrash it, if you know what i mean! Its worked for me so far! Get one but be picky - there are plenty of wornout shitboxes out there eh. I paid the extra coin and got the RACQ in QLD to look over mine before i bought it, they give you a report on things they find wrong with the car so you know what ur in for. Was worth it! Good luck!

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    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
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