Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Planning on installing GTR injectors into my rb20 this weekend and wanted to know how straight-forward it is.

Ive been reading up a couple of threads but majority of them are cluttered with useless jibba-jabba :D

Ive read the best way is to remove the top part of the plenumn to get easy access to the injectors.

Ive purchased the following from a Nissan Dealer; Are these the only gaskets needed?

N1617553J00 Gasket - Throttle Chamber - $18.00

N2378540F00 Gasket - AAC Valve - $3.40

N1403272L01 Gasket - Intake Manifold - $13.60

My injector cleaner workshop said to place grease around the rings when pushing the injectors onto the fuel rail. Ive heard some grease can eat rubber? Which grease is best to apply to create a tight seal.

Does anyone have pictures of where the GTR Resistor pack was fitted in the engine bay in their r32 rb20?

Anyone have photos of the wiring to the resistor pack and any tips on how to easily determine which wire?

Also any other tips / hints when installing gtr injectors :)

I'll update this thread after Saturday with some progress pictures to help people in the future.

edit; Ill be doing the work in wheelers hill, victoria. If you've done the wiring before and are willing to give us a hand, please PM me :yes:

Thanks

Patrick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256804-gtr-injectors-in-rb20/
Share on other sites

i mounted mine on the opposite side above the brake booster, so it was away from any extra heat,

i also replaced my injector wiring plugs with some new ones as the rb20 ones are slightly different to GTR ones but with some filing they can fit, this was also cause the old plastic had turned a bit brittle over age and another thing the new ones had a spring style clip so you didn't loose the little wire retaining clip.

You should use vaseline as the lube for your o rings,

The power wire from the resistor i just took strait to the battery but installed a fuse in the line, this also give a good decent 12'v for you injector power

and as soon as you strip the insulation off the injector wiring the wires become a bit more obvious, and you don't have specific wires out of the resistor to join to specific injectors as long as you join all six wires to each injector.

I dont think you can but them separate.

you can get the coil pack loom separate

AFM/injector etc i think is full loom only, i could be wrong but i know AFM is full loom only... ripe pain in the ass.

Full loom is only $770 though, i know as im buying one tomorrow :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Decided to try and put in the injectors this weekend. Some tips for people doing it in the future.

- Much easier to install injectors if manifold is pulled off.

- No need to pull off throttle body, leave it attached to manifold and just remove the cross over pipe etc

- There is 12 bolts holding the manifold, 6 you can see easily near the strut tower, the other 6 are deeper under the manifold.

- Manifold gasket will rip when removing manifold, and will need to scrub it off (took me 30-40mins with a razor blade)

- With manifold pulled off, easier to remove the fuel rail and old injectors.

- 3 injector connectors are on main loom and another 3 are on a smaller loom connected by a plug to the main loom.

- GTR injectors wont fit onto the rb20 injector connector's because the gtr injectors have 2 extra plastic notches.

- Can either trim off the notches or order GTR injector connectors from Nissan (As you wil be cutting the power wire from each connector to wire in resistor ballast, may as well just wire up new gtr connectors)

Here's a picture of what im up to haha

injector.jpg

Will update later with resistor ballast wiring.

Cheers

Ok. This is slightly off topic but here goes.....

I bought a set of GTR injectors for my RB20 and I was told that they have been modified to RB20 ohm.

Is this feasable or has someone just told me a load of bullshit???

If is is possible, how can this be tested?

Thanx.

Decided to try and put in the injectors this weekend. Some tips for people doing it in the future.

- Much easier to install injectors if manifold is pulled off.

- No need to pull off throttle body, leave it attached to manifold and just remove the cross over pipe etc

- There is 12 bolts holding the manifold, 6 you can see easily near the strut tower, the other 6 are deeper under the manifold.

- Manifold gasket will rip when removing manifold, and will need to scrub it off (took me 30-40mins with a razor blade)

- With manifold pulled off, easier to remove the fuel rail and old injectors.

- 3 injector connectors are on main loom and another 3 are on a smaller loom connected by a plug to the main loom.

- GTR injectors wont fit onto the rb20 injector connector's because the gtr injectors have 2 extra plastic notches.

- Can either trim off the notches or order GTR injector connectors from Nissan (As you wil be cutting the power wire from each connector to wire in resistor ballast, may as well just wire up new gtr connectors)

Here's a picture of what im up to haha

injector.jpg

Will update later with resistor ballast wiring.

Cheers

Don't you mean plenum (or Nissan terminology, "collector"), rather than intake manifold?

You don't need to pull the manifold off.

cheers,

sam

Thanks for help.

Did you buy your injector wiring plugs brand new? Any idea on what Nissan would charge for them?

cheers

Nah mine were generic ones from a shop in Hobart called Automotive Service Solutions, i'm guessing there would be a place similar to this where you are

http://www.efi.com.au/index.php

Nah mine were generic ones from a shop in Hobart called Automotive Service Solutions, i'm guessing there would be a place similar to this where you are

http://www.efi.com.au/index.php

yeah. my mechanic supplied me with some generic connectors which are perfect fit on the gtr injectors.

Also my rb20 plugs were all rusted inside and green from corrosion! One of them had barely any connection.

In order to wire the resistor ballast, i first tried to determine which 1 of the 2 wires to each plug was the voltage (which connects up to the other 2 plugs through the loom)

By setting the multimeter to resistance and putting the probe in one of the injector plug and then into the second injector plug you can search until the value on the screen shows 0.8~

This means that there is a resistance because both of them are connected somewhere inside the loom.

Hopefully that makes sense, ill try revise it after i get my car running :thumbsup:

Okay, i made this quickly in MSPaint, hopefully it will be easier to explain.

Basically, you can work out the linked connections without stripping apart the whole loom.

Just use a multimeter to try and find a closed loop. Also by using the 12v going to the loom (injector 4,5,6) it saves the hassle of stripping the main loom to find it.

Will have car put back together tomorrow and hopefully it will all start. haha

Hopefully the below makes sense

Cheers

gtrwiringrb20.jpg

  • 10 months later...

Oki pulling up an old thread due to talking about the same stuff in another topic which had nothing to do with it!

This is properly the smart way to do this and most likely will be doing it soon!

Q1: How much did the gasket cost that you ripped? do you have a part number?

Q2: How much is the ballast resistor? can we get some pics? so i can just go to the jap wrecker local and grab one ?

Q3: What did you use as lube for your seals? did you go with the Vaseline?

George :thumbsup:

Oki pulling up an old thread due to talking about the same stuff in another topic which had nothing to do with it!

This is properly the smart way to do this and most likely will be doing it soon!

Q1: How much did the gasket cost that you ripped? do you have a part number?

Q2: How much is the ballast resistor? can we get some pics? so i can just go to the jap wrecker local and grab one ?

Q3: What did you use as lube for your seals? did you go with the Vaseline?

George :D

Q1:

N1403272L01 Gasket - Intake Manifold - $13.60

Purchased from Nissan Dealer. Took a day to arrive.

Q2:

GTR Resistor ballast

22698-05U10resistor.jpg

Justjap sells brand new for $210

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17524

Chop the plug off, and you will have 7 wires. (6 injector wires and 1 power wire, which is probably the yellow colour one)

Q3:

Are you talking about the injector seals before pushing them onto the fuel rail? I cant remember what I used. When i picked up my cleaned injectors, the person mentioned something to use but I have forgot haha

Hope the above helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...