Jump to content
SAU Community

Drifting Techniques Part 1 by Doctor Drift

Dr_Drift

By Dr_Drift,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest MRE

Guest MRE

Posted
Posted

I have to disagree with some of the comments made above.

I have standard suspension and can drift quiet well thank you.

"the best suspension is not going to make a great driver"

Skill, knowledge, control and practice are the key.

The best way to learn is on dirt in an open paddock/dirt, this lays a foundation that allows you to master the very basic's of drift.

When this is taken on the road this prepares you for what will happen when the car breaks traction, the increased grip forces you to fine tune throttle control amongst other things.

My car is also an Auto...............

I find knocking her to 1st for the tight ones and 2nd for all others is fine. Most drifting I have done is rarely above the range of these 2 gears.

A few of the fellow QLDers saw some of my work on Saturday night and will back me up.

1. Stock Suspension

2. Auto

Are not limiting factors

BTW loved the Vid Dr Drift, some more corner work and a little less 180's and it would have been a perfect Vid.

Dr_Drift Veteran

Dr_Drift

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I agree totally, some of the best drifting was in my old datto 1600 with stock suspension...

As for the 180's the clip posted was more specific for the burnout action, much better footage from the day, but i don't have any posting space to put it, that was courtesy of meggala. That was not my choice of clip, I'll try and get him to post another up there...

Any video's of QLD drifters to back up your "I can drift an auto with stock suspension" claim?

Doc.

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Nismo_Freak

Guest Nismo_Freak

Posted
Posted

My 240SX cant drift very well... 3 degrees of negative camber in the rear w/ sticky tires and a N/a motor makes for short skids before tires catch and make for some interesting fish tailing. I have open differential by the way alond with a front tower bar and lowering springs. Im sure it can drift but my technique doesnt work and I dont like using the e-brake... seems too easy for me. Only way I can get a good slide is to go into the corner wide, turn in towards apex at 40mph, then I downshift hard into 2nd gear and it spins the rear wheel some and causes the weight-shift to sling shot the rear end out. It is very short lived and cant be maintained... possibly with some crappy tires but its very hard keeping the car from doing 180s or 360s with the open differential. In the rain the car is damn near impossible to drift as the car is too low... it pushes before sliding the whole car into a straightline skid. I am getting some Tein HE Drift Spec Dampers some time along with a LSD so that should make it a tad bit easier and alot more controllable.

Dr_Drift Veteran

Dr_Drift

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sounds like your going down the right track.

Had an opportunity to see two identical R32's on the weekend, except one had a tight LSD.

The Diff makes a big difference to sustaining a drift, and if you don't it can be a recipie for disaster....

Good Luck.

Doc.

badbiki Apprentice

badbiki

Posted
Posted

for a controlable and impressive d0rift in an s13 (silvia/180) you want some fine suspension (tein coilovers, koni etc) some front/rear sway bars (large), front strut brace and a GOOD LSD!... single spinners are horrible!...

seriously i wouldn't try to fang a single spinner out sideways, its way too dangerous and hard to control. atleast get a LSD (2-way mechanical =) )

btw, power oversteer out of the corner isn't drift.

flicking it left then right well before the corner and having it sideways the entire time is =) and preferably coming out parrallel to the direction of the road you are turning onto. my definition anyway =) and to attempt at doing that on stock suspenion with a single spinner AND a n/a motor is truley asking for trouble.

skill can only go so far =) good suspenion just hides my lack of skill at this point =)

bolt on a turbo to your sr20de mate! buy one of my boards, retune him and away you go!!!.. i'm in the process of doing a 2nd conversion with oneone atm =) good results

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I often drift on the way to work there are two corners that first is a right hand bend then the good one is a left hand bend with that slippery road surface that looks rough but is a light grey colour.. I'm sure u ppls all know it..

Anyway the stock suspension seems to handle it perfectly.

Sideways all the way through second I havn't tried 3rd as there is a nice stoby sitting there just waiting.

Also i do often use slight pressure on the brake just to get it hanging there that bit longer and it also causes almost 90degree powerslides.

3rd gear is dodgy with stock suspension i think.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...