Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just a quick question. Does anyone make a bolt on exhaust for the S2 Stagea? I haven't seen one but was wondering if anyone else may have.

Also anyone have or knowwith this Xforce Varex muffler? It looks pretty good and looks pretty safe for the car. I've seen some that would creat dangerous back pressure. But this one looks pretty good.

Heres a Link: http://xforce.com.au/cars/view_car/29

I think I'll be getting one for the Sagea when I finaly find one I want. Lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257129-bolt-on-exhaust/
Share on other sites

Hey just a quick question. Does anyone make a bolt on exhaust for the S2 Stagea? I haven't seen one but was wondering if anyone else may have.

Also anyone have or knowwith this Xforce Varex muffler? It looks pretty good and looks pretty safe for the car. I've seen some that would creat dangerous back pressure. But this one looks pretty good.

Heres a Link: http://xforce.com.au/cars/view_car/29

I think I'll be getting one for the Sagea when I finaly find one I want. Lol.

I got a greedy p.e.2 from autobarn for $770 quite as,but I had to wait like 3 months for it from japan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257129-bolt-on-exhaust/#findComment-4428483
Share on other sites

illegal i belive.

but hey its only illegal if you get caught

thats what i got . part is MPO1, turbo back exhaust,

Yeh would be. Because it goes over the 90 db limit. But thats only when its open. When closed its under the legal limit. So therefore legal. Well thats my understanding.

HKS also do some bolt on cat back exhausts that you can get in australia. Hi-Power 409 and Hi-Power Silent are a couple.

Sound pretty good. I don't want the whole cannon mufler or sound though. I want it to sound legit. So saw this and thought "straight through with this on the back" or something like that anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257129-bolt-on-exhaust/#findComment-4428672
Share on other sites

Seconded.

High flowing and pretty quiet, but gives a nice burble.

Thirded, Fujitsubo Legalis R is awesome.

I ordered mine and got the local exhaust shop to fit it. They were like kids in a candy shop fitting it they were amazed at how tidy the welds were and how everything fitted up exactly. I would also recommend getting a front pipe as this really made a nice difference and made the car sound really grunty when you put your foot down.

Also on another point fujitsubo legalis R exhaust are made out of medium stainless steel, others like hks are made out of mild steel.

Heres a couple of pics of the exhaust.

post-39581-1234766888_thumb.jpg

post-39581-1234766901_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257129-bolt-on-exhaust/#findComment-4428737
Share on other sites

judtjap dump/front stainless- 200

catco cat- 175

custom mild 3" catback, mild mid, stainless magnaflow rear- ~770 installed

~86db @4700rpm, 88db at max revs with a pop on lift off...

that system with a series 2 cooler is awesome responsive, lost some response with the FMIC

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257129-bolt-on-exhaust/#findComment-4429132
Share on other sites

Down the bottom of the page is a disclaimer.

Intended for race and off road use only

I would assume that thats cause it could be made illegal by opening the valve. Does anyone have a contact who could maybe findout if its legal/ileagal for us.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257129-bolt-on-exhaust/#findComment-4430893
Share on other sites

not sure of my catback zorst, it has Jasma mufflers on it, but fujitsubo stickers on car. received justjap dump last week, bought a 3" cat and some new flanges/gaskets too. getting fitted this saturday at right price exhausts on Moss St, slacks ck.

RPX also informed me that the JJ gaskets are poo. they would eventually blow out. the gasket on left is RPX, on right is JJ. notice the inner metal ring on the RPX one ? for $3.50 each it ain't worth the hassles

post-58831-1234862466_thumb.jpg

RPX also mentioned they will use the std metal gasket instead of this one as it will blow out too. no inner ring to stop gasses getting in between and blowing the guts out over time.

post-58831-1234862475_thumb.jpg

heres the 3" hiflo cat and flanges. i will have it setup so if i want i can remove cat and install straight pipe.

post-58831-1234862535_thumb.jpg

inside of cat

post-58831-1234862551_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Jez

PS. anyone ever put a magnet on these so called stainless exhausts from just jap ? well on mine it's all non magnetic (stainless) except for bottom flange to cat, so it has a mild steel flange at end. they should have to call it 95% stainless exhaust LOL :ermm:

Edited by Jezboosted
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257129-bolt-on-exhaust/#findComment-4431015
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...