Jump to content
SAU Community

Cam Pully Position Without Backing Plate

=premo=

By =premo=,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

=premo= Mentor

=premo=

Posted
Posted

Anyone know how to assemble the timing belt setup without the backing plate?

I have no1 on TDC and at the moment the cam pulleys are horizontal pointing away from each other but I'm not 100% sure this is right and all it takes is one tooth out to fk an engine.

Any help greatly appretiated.

Cheers,

Daniel

den001 Proficient

den001

Posted
Posted

don't bother trying to guess, u say u have a fresh engine, go and spend the extra 50 bucks and make sure your engine stays fresh not broken in the first start up..

secondly they are not horizontally away from each other

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
spend $50 on a backing plate?

If someone can tell me exactly how many degree's above horizontal the mark should be then I can use angle gauge to get it right.

i can tell you exactly...but you will have to wait till tonight.

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

Cam belt doesnt have timing marks on it?

If i was stuck id put it together with the plate on, make some marks and the belt and gears, count some teeth, pull it apart and do it again without the plate. Or dont you have one at all?

=premo= Mentor

=premo=

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

So 15deg above centerline on both cam's (inlet up, exhaust up) or 15deg clockwise from centerline (so inlet up, exhaust down)?

Thanks guy's

and nope I don't have a backing plate and the timing belt is from a different car... RB30/26 combo

Edited by =premo=
Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
So 15deg above centerline on both cam's (inlet up, exhaust up)

this way ^^^

...make sure you correctly degree camshafts with a degree wheel, pointer and dial indicator if you have vernier cam gears. This will get them spot on...see my tutorial in the DIY section.

Edited by DiRTgarage
=premo= Mentor

=premo=

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nice one, counting teeth between cam marks is easy its just between crank and cam that's different because of the extra height in the block. I should be safe setting it up on TDC with 15 degree's up on both or 15 degree's on the inlet and 39 teeth to the exhaust. I'll let you know how I go. Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...
=premo= Mentor

=premo=

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I got hold of a backing plate and used that to setup the timing belt, put it all together and in the car. Started it up and it sounds rough (actually fair tough), shakes like a jackhammer and start's popping out the exhaust at 2000rpm so I turned it off straight away and went shopping for explosives.

When I used the backing plate I held it up to the cam gears so I could see the marks from the back of the engine and lined up the tooth on the cam gear to the mark then looked from the front of the engine to make sure it was the right tooth that I had just lined up. I checked it at least three times to make sure the marked tooth was at the right spot. The only thing I can think of is that the marks on the backing plate are not symmetrical so when I've flipped the plate horizontally so I could see the marks against the cam gears its given a different result... Although the backing plate does look symmetrical.

Any suggestions on how I can diagnose the problem or work out which gear needs to go which way?

I still have 10 degrees of adjustment either direction on the cam gears that I haven't used so I might not need to pull it apart to fix the problem if I can work out exactly what the problem is. Its also possible this isn't the problem at all.

=premo= Mentor

=premo=

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Put the backing plate on and realized that the cam timing is out a tooth on both gears because of the tensioner's. Because its an RB30 I have two tensioner's and when I've done them up its pulled the cam's around almost a full tooth. The down side is that wasn't the problem. I checked the compression to make sure no bent valves and all is good but when I started it up again it was doing the same thing. Pulled off coil pack plugs 1,2 and 4 and no difference, the fkn thing is running on 3 cylinders. All the spark plugs are black as fk and its blowing heaps of fuel and black smoke out the exhaust. The popping at 2000rpm is still there.

I'm currently running RB20det coil packs even though its a RB26 head and engine loom, are RB20 coil packs different to RB26 coil pack's and could this be causing the problem or is it more likely to be a tuning problem?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...