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Anyone know how to assemble the timing belt setup without the backing plate?

I have no1 on TDC and at the moment the cam pulleys are horizontal pointing away from each other but I'm not 100% sure this is right and all it takes is one tooth out to fk an engine.

Any help greatly appretiated.

Cheers,

Daniel

don't bother trying to guess, u say u have a fresh engine, go and spend the extra 50 bucks and make sure your engine stays fresh not broken in the first start up..

secondly they are not horizontally away from each other

spend $50 on a backing plate?

If someone can tell me exactly how many degree's above horizontal the mark should be then I can use angle gauge to get it right.

i can tell you exactly...but you will have to wait till tonight.

Cam belt doesnt have timing marks on it?

If i was stuck id put it together with the plate on, make some marks and the belt and gears, count some teeth, pull it apart and do it again without the plate. Or dont you have one at all?

So 15deg above centerline on both cam's (inlet up, exhaust up) or 15deg clockwise from centerline (so inlet up, exhaust down)?

Thanks guy's

and nope I don't have a backing plate and the timing belt is from a different car... RB30/26 combo

Edited by =premo=
So 15deg above centerline on both cam's (inlet up, exhaust up)

this way ^^^

...make sure you correctly degree camshafts with a degree wheel, pointer and dial indicator if you have vernier cam gears. This will get them spot on...see my tutorial in the DIY section.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Nice one, counting teeth between cam marks is easy its just between crank and cam that's different because of the extra height in the block. I should be safe setting it up on TDC with 15 degree's up on both or 15 degree's on the inlet and 39 teeth to the exhaust. I'll let you know how I go. Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

Well I got hold of a backing plate and used that to setup the timing belt, put it all together and in the car. Started it up and it sounds rough (actually fair tough), shakes like a jackhammer and start's popping out the exhaust at 2000rpm so I turned it off straight away and went shopping for explosives.

When I used the backing plate I held it up to the cam gears so I could see the marks from the back of the engine and lined up the tooth on the cam gear to the mark then looked from the front of the engine to make sure it was the right tooth that I had just lined up. I checked it at least three times to make sure the marked tooth was at the right spot. The only thing I can think of is that the marks on the backing plate are not symmetrical so when I've flipped the plate horizontally so I could see the marks against the cam gears its given a different result... Although the backing plate does look symmetrical.

Any suggestions on how I can diagnose the problem or work out which gear needs to go which way?

I still have 10 degrees of adjustment either direction on the cam gears that I haven't used so I might not need to pull it apart to fix the problem if I can work out exactly what the problem is. Its also possible this isn't the problem at all.

Put the backing plate on and realized that the cam timing is out a tooth on both gears because of the tensioner's. Because its an RB30 I have two tensioner's and when I've done them up its pulled the cam's around almost a full tooth. The down side is that wasn't the problem. I checked the compression to make sure no bent valves and all is good but when I started it up again it was doing the same thing. Pulled off coil pack plugs 1,2 and 4 and no difference, the fkn thing is running on 3 cylinders. All the spark plugs are black as fk and its blowing heaps of fuel and black smoke out the exhaust. The popping at 2000rpm is still there.

I'm currently running RB20det coil packs even though its a RB26 head and engine loom, are RB20 coil packs different to RB26 coil pack's and could this be causing the problem or is it more likely to be a tuning problem?

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