Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looking at an item...just want to know if this cat converter will fit in the standard cat converter path and more importantly if ti will flow and not restrict for over 300rwkw??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3-5-High-Flow-Metal...A1%7C240%3A1318

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257293-highflow-catalytic-converter/
Share on other sites

also would it be cheaper to go to an exhaust shop and get one of this size with fittings etc or take this one (if its the correct one for my application) to an exhaust shop and get them to fuse 3 inch flanges onto it and install it?

would it be stupid to gut it?

ive been told no matter what u get they all clog up.

Sounds like you should stop listening to whoever is telling you that garbage, and yes, spending money on a cat only to gut it is a complete waste.

So many traders on this forum offering proven and reputable brands of high flow cats, why the need to buy a cheapo one from ebay?

A Metal Cat with the 200 cell insides is not junk by any means. This one doesnt come with flanges tho, so add the cost of getting them welded on. Other vendors sell them with flanges ready to bolt up.

They also claim to me emissions legal - http://www.metalcat.com.au/

Or you can just get a bolt on high flow catco cat from justjap with flanges. The cheaper one is ceremic core, but should be fine for 300kw. But if you have the money, upgrade to metal core like the metalcat or the catco metal core high flows.

i dunno man . looks like china junk to me. spend the money and go a magnaflow metalic :wave:

+1 for Magnaflow, faultless product and full 12 month replacement warranty if something went wrong (unlikely to happen)

Xforce "racing" cats are also metal cores, there are a few forum sellers that do sell quality cat's.

If its $180, it has to be ceramic core, and if its not a known brand, why buy it? There are known brands fairly cheap if that is a ceramic core...

thats a metal core. and yeah it'll flow well. Look for a 100cpi item tho.

did the same, got a 200cpi from usa, welded it up with flanges, but still restrictive in a sense; put a 1" hole thru the middle :(

flows better :)

thats a metal core. and yeah it'll flow well. Look for a 100cpi item tho.

did the same, got a 200cpi from usa, welded it up with flanges, but still restrictive in a sense; put a 1" hole thru the middle :)

flows better :)

that's like saying f**k you to the greenies, and then giving them a hug?

having a 1 inch hole is gonna cause a fair amount of turbulance inside the cat and may actually cause more backpressure then a full cat.

i have a $400 metal cat here tangles if you want to try it.

its no use to me any more, if you like then you can buy it.

going cheap

that's like saying f**k you to the greenies, and then giving them a hug?

having a 1 inch hole is gonna cause a fair amount of turbulance inside the cat and may actually cause more backpressure then a full cat.

i have a $400 metal cat here tangles if you want to try it.

its no use to me any more, if you like then you can buy it.

going cheap

got no cash, cheers tho!

doesnt smell, still does the job but is less restrictive. its still metalcore, still doing its job, but letting a little 'extra' through.

thinking last night might run a split system, two pipe from cat with short one exiting at front of rear wheel :)

so no one has answered if i gutted the cat would i lose any power?

would there be any negative impact on the engine or its performance in any way?

might be turbulent? decat pipe made up at the exhaust shop is two 5buck flanges and an offcut of steel...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...