Whats The Difference Between The Best Oils

[whatsisname]

I have used Motul 300V 'Competition' 15W50 and 'Chrono' 10W40 and would gladly recommend the 300V line to anyone looking for a quality engine oil.

I used nothing but the above two oils from 1998 through until 2008. I do regular 5,000kms changes and when the engine was stripped down for a rebuild in 2003 (ring land failure) apart from the detonation damage the engine was in excellent condition! It had done a genuine (confirmed) 50,000km.

Late last year I decided to switch to Royal Purple's new XPR 10W40 http://www.royalpurple.com/xpr-racing-oil-rh.html No particular reason, other than it was available for a reasonable price through an online trader and I had heard a lot of positive feed back from other users.

[Guilt-Toy]

If you have a RB engine and you don't want to spin a bearing use Motul 300v Chrono competition. . END

[Swiper the Fox]

If you have a RB engine and you don't want to spin a bearing use Motul 300v Chrono competition. . END

I have to disagree Guilt...300V engines spin bearings too...just ask T04GTR Dave.

[Guilt-Toy]

I have to disagree Guilt...300V engines spin bearings too...just ask T04GTR Dave.

do you want to fight about it? i have lots of cousins who are fully sick.

You are a mad man for changing from 300v to Castrol.

[Swiper the Fox]

do you want to fight about it? i have lots of cousins who are fully sick.

You are a mad man for changing from 300v to Castrol.

ive ordered some new oil today

[Guilt-Toy]

ive ordered some new oil today

Just as well.

[=premo=]

So back to the original question, what is the actual difference between the top Elf product and Motul 300v?

[Guilt-Toy]

Read this post. The Elf oil would fall into group III i would guess, I doubt its a group 4. either way the difference is explained here. Group 5 is where 300v is at.

Be aware that most oil on the market advertised as "Synthetic" are not 100% synthetic. They are still hydrocracked group III base stock that are highly refined. You want group 4 POA base stock (Mobile 1) or Group 5 Ester based stock (300v) oil that are 100% synthetic. But most ppl tends to agree that if you change oil every 5000km or less, it dosn't really matter which oil you use as long as they are not mineral oil. Most Group 3 oil are pretty close to the quality of Group 4's anyway, so it really depends on your budget. I personally only use 300v.

I believe that the higher the difference in ratio between the cold/hot weight, the greater the amount of viscosity modifier in the oil and less base stock. So 10w40 has a ratio of 1 to 4, where 5w30 has a ratio of 1 to 6. 10w40 will offer better protection.

I've posted this already in the oil oil thread, but I'll post it here again.

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http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...up=Lubrication2

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...oup=OilAnalysis

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...p=Which%20group?

QUOTE

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The API groups oils into five major categories, each with different properties and production methods:

Group I: Solvent frozen mineral oil. This is the least processed of all oils on the market today and is typically used in nonautomotive applications, though some of it may find its way into low-cost motor oils.

Group II: Hydro-processed and refined mineral oil. This is the most common of all petroleum oils and is the standard component of most petroleum-based automotive and motorcycle engine oils.

Group III (now called synthetic): The oils start as standard Group I oils and are processed to remove impurities, resulting in a more heat-stable compound than possible as a standard Group I or II oil. Some examples are Castrol Syntec automotive oil and Motorex Top Speed. These are the lowest cost synthetics to produce, and generally do not perform as well as Group IV or V oils.

Group IV: Polyalphaolefin, commonly called PAOs. These are the most common of the full synthetic oils, and usually offer big improvements in heat and overall stability when compared to Group III oils. They are produced in mass quantities and are reasonably inexpensive for full-synthetic oils. Since they are wax-free they offer high viscosity indexes (low temperature pour point) and often require little or no viscosity modifiers. Examples include Amsoil and Motorex Power Synt.

Group V: Esters. These oils start their life as plant or animal bases called fatty acids. They are then converted via a chemical reaction into esters or diesters which are then used as base stocks. Esters are polar, which means they act like a magnet and actually cling to metals. This supposedly offers much better protection on metal-to-metal surfaces than conventional PAOs, which do not have this polar effect. These base stock oils also act as a good solvent inside the engine, translating into cleaner operation. Esters are the most expensive to produce, and oils manufactured with them usually cost much more. Due to this higher cost, many companies only fortify their oils with esters. Some examples are Bel-Ray EXS, Torco MPZ Synthetic and Maxum 4 Extra. Motul 300V, however, uses 100 percent ester as its base oil, and is one of the more expensive oils.

The grouping of these oils is the source of much controversy. One topic that has been debated is what can be labeled a "full synthetic oil." In 1999, Mobil brought a complaint against Castrol for changing the base oil in its Syntec product. They had used a Group IV PAO, but had changed to a Group III base oil. Mobil contended that Group III oils were not really "synthetic oil" and should not be labeled as such. After many expert opinions were heard, the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau sided with Castrol and said that Group III oils could be labeled synthetic. Since that time there has been a lot of growth in this product type due to its low cost and similar performance to traditional synthetics. Many traditionalists still argue that Group III oils are not true synthetic oils.

[=premo=]

If Elf's only a III then its overpriced.

Just looked at the Elf website, it gives little to no information about its base so I'd say your right its a III

Would Motul 8100 be a IV?

Bit worried that 5-40 would be too thin..?

Could anybody tell me what happens with thin oils in performance race engines at high/low rpm/heat?

[daxter]

What would be best for a daily driven 220rwkw RB25DET? (Often driving in stop/go traffic.)

MOTUL

4100 TURBOLIGHT 10W-40

Or

300V CHRONO 10W40

Edited February 19, 2009 by daxter

[PM-R33]

Well obviously the 300V would be the best over the 4100, it also comes with a price tag.

Yes, Motul 8100 is a group IV

[Swiper the Fox]

Well obviously the 300V would be the best over the 4100, it also comes with a price tag.

Yes, Motul 8100 is a group IV

just ordered 1 carton (12 x 2 litres) of Motul 300V 'Le Mans' 20W 60 for $600...$50 for 2 litres = $225 per oil change...bargain!

i was going to get a 60litre drum but initial outlay of $1300 delivered was a bit much in 1 hit.

[TALBO]

I changed my oil monday for the first time and used Motul 8100 5-40 and (I don't know what oil was in there before) it definitely revs easier and overall the engine feels more smooth.

I know there have been discussions about how much the autobahn guys know......., but when I picked up the 8100 the guy in autobahn started going on about how he'd been to some training recently about oils and was taught that RP shouldn't go into anything with alloy block or head because it (RP that is) apparently has something in it that is corrosive. Now I didn't care too much because I was in a hurry and I'd already decided that my motor was going to get Motul!

[_Ryan_]

my motor seems to like 10w30 Fuchs, and my wallet likes it at around 55$ for 5l. Daily driven stagea on stock boost(about to go to 10psi), FMIC, TBE...

is there any point going to the Motul turbolite?

[__PhaseShiftDown]

Depends on how much your wallet allows really. But I wouldn't go for turbolite 4100 stuff, go for 8100 (group IV)

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

royal purple for my money..

[daxter]

Well obviously the 300V would be the best over the 4100, it also comes with a price tag.

Yes, Motul 8100 is a group IV

Ok, thanks heaps, looks like ill be using 300V CHRONO 10W40 from now on

[gotRICE?]

royal purple for my money..

Whats Royal Purple like in comparison to 300v?

[PM-R33]

Depends if it is their race oil or there normal oil that you find on shelves for $90. The $90 one is a group IV and i believe their race oils are group 5 but not 100% sure.

[Phatboy]

I've been using Castrol Magnatec 10W-40... I'd like to use an oil that will offer my engine the best protection so it will last.

I think you posted an oxymoron.

was using Motul 300V...and the Le Mans stuff...not competition...was costing me $300 to change the oil every time i raced. Ive changed to a more cost effective oil as it doesnt last long enough to justify using the 'Le Mans'

Add a $600 race fuel bill for tuning and competing and entry fee and its a 4 figure sum to race for 103 seconds at a meeting (7 x 9 second passes)...I think this is confirmation that im definately a madman.

I have used Motul 300V 'Competition' 15W50 and 'Chrono' 10W40 and would gladly recommend the 300V line to anyone looking for a quality engine oil.

I used nothing but the above two oils from 1998 through until 2008. I do regular 5,000kms changes and when the engine was stripped down for a rebuild in 2003 (ring land failure) apart from the detonation damage the engine was in excellent condition! It had done a genuine (confirmed) 50,000km.

Late last year I decided to switch to Royal Purple's new XPR 10W40 http://www.royalpurple.com/xpr-racing-oil-rh.html No particular reason, other than it was available for a reasonable price through an online trader and I had heard a lot of positive feed back from other users.

Did you notice any difference between the three oils? I am not sure which 300V is best for my mainly-street driven -5s GTR.