Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I find i'm replacing the O2 sensor on my car at least every 20,000kms....does anyone else seem to go through them that quickly? The AFRs aren't anything crazy currently (used to happen when stock as well)

I get the same symptoms long before the check engine light ever comes on, stalling at lights, stalling if braking hard, erratic low idle that doesn't respond to AAC adjustment.

Running the O2 sensor diagnostic to check the recommended "5 flashes @ 2000 rpm" and always get zero flashes, replacing the sensor and I usually get 7 - 10 flashes straight away and car runs like new again for another 20,000kms.

Bloody things are starting to become a general service item for me.

just unplug the o2 sensor mate..the car will run in safe mode which means it will just run a little bit rich but u wont be getting the problems your getting and you wont be forking out money to buy 02 sensors ever 20000 kms...thats what ive done and its fixed the problems.

yea, I ate a few for awhile and couldn't seem to beat it. We thought about fuel as an issue, and then heat. I noticed that everything around the sensor was cooking, so I fitted a body washer between the oxy sensor and the pipe. Then I wrapped the pipe and this seemed to keep the thing cooler and its been in there for two years now..

just unplug the o2 sensor mate..the car will run in safe mode which means it will just run a little bit rich but u wont be getting the problems your getting and you wont be forking out money to buy 02 sensors ever 20000 kms...thats what ive done and its fixed the problems.

I can't, my fuel consumption falls through the floor, 3 weeks of driving like that will cost me the equivalent of a new sensor.

yea, I ate a few for awhile and couldn't seem to beat it. We thought about fuel as an issue, and then heat. I noticed that everything around the sensor was cooking, so I fitted a body washer between the oxy sensor and the pipe. Then I wrapped the pipe and this seemed to keep the thing cooler and its been in there for two years now..

is that like a fibreglass washer?

What colour is the sensor probe when you take them out? If they are black, it may be that you are driving far too vigourously (ie RICH) and coating the sensor in carbon so it doesn't sense correctly.

Nup on the CES dumps the sensors are located downwards, I know a few people using them I think Adam (abo bob) has the same dump.

Tune is pretty conservative off-boost, on boost is static 12:1 AFR

if yours is Type A id say you've found the culprit

02 sensors are very pedantic about location, how they are mounted and temperature/pressure in the exhaust

so it could be pressure is too high (unlikely) or temp is too high (have you checked EGT?) - again unlikely in normal turbo applications

upside down is big no no, they will die a short death each time, its plastered all over the bosch install guide somewhere if you can find it

try searching for Bosch LSU install or google it, youll find it for wideband 02 but its the same dealy for narrow band

wow im surprised at that, upside down 02 sensor

no wonder you keep killing them....

get another dump pipe and it will be fine

what a shame hey, im surprised no one else has picked up on that or noticed?

who installed it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...