Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Since i've bought my r32 gtr its been a lot more laggy than my mates, its not really full boost til 4500-5 and doesnt kick in that hard

My mates seems to kick in real hard down low, about 2500 from memory

Mines still stock turbos but its got adjustable actuators on the turbo's, ive adjusted them to run 10 psi and there seems to be heaps of pressure holding the internal gates closed, one thing i noticed is it hasn't got the boost restrictor in it but only runs 10 psi maybe still the actuators are adjusted wrong even though theres a lot of pressure keeping the gates shut?

It also has a big cooler but surley that wouldn't cause that big of difference in lag!?

Its got stainless dump pipes that go to a 3.5 inch exhuast not that i see how that would make it laggy lol...

apart from that its stock

Any ideas?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257782-gtr-too-much-lag/
Share on other sites

Might be worth putting some stock actuators on it then? but there seems to be heaps of pressure to hold the gates closed!

Full boost by 4000? wonder why my mates spools so quick then, his does have adjustable cam gears but i didnt think it would of made 1500 rpm difference

If your mates one has adjustable cam gears that may explain why his ramps onto boost harder and faster.Cam gears properly dialled in can increase low end and spool up.not too sure as to what extent however

hey mate, same kinda thing i found with my gtr stock everything except for zorst, full boost by 4000rpm atleast, not a reall kick in the back either... untill i boosted her to 15pound, made a world of difference,cam gears are going in atm so hopefully that will help lag.

but yeah adjustable actuators on stock turbos not so sure, maybe put factory ones on and save ur self time mucking round.

ball bearing turbos help too.... :)

FWIW my stock turbos + EBC make 13 psi by 3300rpm, but has Nistune. Saying "full boost" without quoting the boost level is meaningless because the higher boost the longer it will take to get there... but yeah 10psi by 4500 is no good. I'd try a set of stock actuators first.

byebye - Did I fit cam gears to your friends GTR? That will make a big difference..

I would suggest getting it tuned/diagnosed properly.

Sam.

Cam gears were already on it but you played with them, its the blue sparkly/dented one you tuned at munros before power cruise

The timing was out a little bit and has made it slightly more responsive

When are you coming back to tas sam? nath did ring you one day but you sounded busy, you said something about him being a pest haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...