Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Whenever I come to a stop my car will idle fine, but then after a few seconds it will drop and the car stalls.

Sometimes it won't stall and it kicks back up to normal again.

Previously my R34 was running fine, yesterday I bought a cannon muffler and got it installed, and it didn't have the problem beforehand.

I took it to my mechanic and he reset the ECU but I'm still having the same problem, he then increased the idle to 900 but still it drops and comes close to stalling (but hasn't stalled on me with the increased idle yet).

Has anyone had this problem before? Can you please help me diagnose the problem? :blush:

Any help/advice?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257920-idle-dropping-car-stalling/
Share on other sites

I'm not a mechanic, but if you took it to a mechanic who simply increased your idle i would search for a new one! I would start by checking your afm and give it a clean with spray on contact cleaner (available from dick smith etc)

I have no idea, but remember it could just be a coincidence. Don't kill hours trying to solve the problem based on the muffler install, start with simple, cheap 5 minute checks and see if it helps. If you had installed a full exhaust that was much more free flowing and had an oiled pod filter the extra air drawn through can put oil on the afm and cause false readings. While this may not be the case, it is where i would start before doing more time consuming things, which is why your mechanic tried simply resetting the ecu before anything else like getting the spark plugs out and checking for fouling etc

Once again though, I'm not a mechanic

its gotto do with back pressure of the exhaust if its related to the cannon, was the old reonator removed and replaced with the canon? ive got a feeling its the 02 sensor and the ecu combined, I had the same problem in a manual r33 gts-t.

My solution was partly due to a number of things...

i cleaned AFM,

Changed spark Plugs,

Cleaned throttle body....

gained alittle more power and car stopped stalling, but it would still drop almost to a stall at roundabouts and stuff....

i ignored the problem since it didnt complertely stall anymore and just thought its an old engine....

i changed the 02 sensor from the original nissan one to an EL falocon 02 sensor for $70 from repco, cut the wires and tied them together and replaced the old one....not only did i gain an extra 100-200km/tank but to my surprise my revs stayed constant at idle and never dropped below 700rpm no matter how i drove it...

most likely your 02 sensor is broken coz they meant to be changed every 40 000km anyway. you will spend $70 on a falcon one like i did or $200ish for nissan replacement part, either way you will definately get your money back by saving fuel over a few months...

see if that works, and if it doesnt, the money you save from fu3el with the 02 sensor will help you to pay a profesional to find the prob...

its located at the beginning of your exhaust pipe just after the engine....

100% the O2 sensor is dead, my car is doing it right now as well and has happened a few times in the past. Change the sensor and everything runs like new again :down:

Which O2 sensor? And where is the O2 sensor located? (car is a R34 98 Automatic, 4door non turbo)

The 02 sensor is located on the exhaust manifold. If you're not too good with wiring etc - best stick with a genuine 02 sensor :D

Also check for vacum leaks (vacum hoses) and the main intake pipe between the afm and the throttle body - make sure its on firmly.

While you're at it it is a good time to clean the throttle body too.

  • 11 months later...

mate belive me,

try these steps.

before u stops the car put it into N. see how u go. if it not stall that is ur Automatic Transmission.

just chk ur fliud level. 100% its too low. top up with fluid in between L-H make sure to not to over fill.

see how u go.

if not, dont waste your time with doing crap.

possible case is ur TCC Solenoid in the auto box. it is not a expenvice part. [$50-70] if u have a skill u can do it by ur self. other wise take it to good transmission repare workshop.

if u in sydney PM me i will tell u where to go.

Hey guys,

Whenever I come to a stop my car will idle fine, but then after a few seconds it will drop and the car stalls.

Sometimes it won't stall and it kicks back up to normal again.

Previously my R34 was running fine, yesterday I bought a cannon muffler and got it installed, and it didn't have the problem beforehand.

I took it to my mechanic and he reset the ECU but I'm still having the same problem, he then increased the idle to 900 but still it drops and comes close to stalling (but hasn't stalled on me with the increased idle yet).

Has anyone had this problem before? Can you please help me diagnose the problem? :banana:

Any help/advice?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi from Canada, Both of my calipers are starting to fail. My car is a 2005 M35 Stagea ARX and I can't seem to find any parts or any cross reference caliper that would fit my car. Is there a company or a similar caliper that would fit and I could replace the OEM one. Or if anyone knows where I can find a new OEM. Any help is very appreciated. Let me know!
    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
×
×
  • Create New...