Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

needs a new motor. $300 or so ex nissan.

how mechancal are you?

For all we know Chris, this guy could be the 6 million dollar man!!

(Bionic.....for the younger folk.. :P )

Hope you're well buddy.... :)

Bump!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4438432
Share on other sites

I'm 37 I remember both shows.

reason I asked - if he's mechanical enough to pull the door down then he can change the motor himself. its mainly 10mm bolts (lots of them) that have to be removed.

failing that - take it to nissan and let them do it. the motor is a Z33 item and door (although SLIGHTLY different shape) is a Z33 as well. expect a $500 bill (inc motor) for that. to tear one down and reassemble is 1.5 hrs roughly. (thats what it takes me.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4438513
Share on other sites

I'm 37 I remember both shows.

reason I asked - if he's mechanical enough to pull the door down then he can change the motor himself. its mainly 10mm bolts (lots of them) that have to be removed.

failing that - take it to nissan and let them do it. the motor is a Z33 item and door (although SLIGHTLY different shape) is a Z33 as well. expect a $500 bill (inc motor) for that. to tear one down and reassemble is 1.5 hrs roughly. (thats what it takes me.)

yeah...I knew that you knew that I knew that too! :) ...er....yeah!

Though with the current exchange rate, Bionic Man is prolly 7 and a half buh..and the door motor about 6 mill. :P

Good advice mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4438633
Share on other sites

someone is proud of their product. they are not that expensive. last one I bought new was $350 locally.

nidn you since its tore down I would also do the regulator as well. saves tearing it down again. the reg is the worst part of it.

give me a chassis number to work with and I'll pull a part number for you. there is a revison on that motor as well. looks like they fixed what broke in them.

Edited by Chris Rogers
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4439124
Share on other sites

Thanks guys! and Chris specially!

i got told yesterday, before i go purchase a new one, to open it up and clean out the surroundings of the buttons....anyhow will let you all know how i go.... if it doesnt work, i will just go to NISSAN and get a new motor...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4439425
Share on other sites

I tried "reconditioning" mine first but I think the problem with them is something else. After cleaning it up it would work going down but didn't have enough strength to close the window. Just put in a newy, it's a new part number so hopefully you won't have the same problem.

1.5 hours is reasonable I think if you stay focussed. 4 hours? you must of had a few beer brakes

Edited by Blitz_boy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4440461
Share on other sites

someone post a shot of the inner door and I'll do a point and explain.

stephen,

never looked at the FSM for this thing. I dare say its 4 hrs from dry though. (to do a doot lock actuator does take longer - thats a BITCH to do!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4441336
Share on other sites

Oh, yes maybe I was thinking door lock actuators... not window winder.

Anyway, I still take my time, hate doing things twice, bescause I didn't locktite something, or adjust it, clean or polish it.

As for Beer "Brake" (sic), nope never during... just a Bourbon as I finish the job.

So Chris, the first one you did would be 4 hrs would it? It is just you have experience now though!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4445382
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Guys.

Ever had a problem with the windows moving while driving at high speeds (110kmh+)

My windows shift up and down when go over a bump or past a road train. The "open doors light" comes on aswell as the door lights and interior light.

Any ideas?

I think i might be to do with some sensor thats a bit touchy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4467957
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...