Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

needs a new motor. $300 or so ex nissan.

how mechancal are you?

For all we know Chris, this guy could be the 6 million dollar man!!

(Bionic.....for the younger folk.. :P )

Hope you're well buddy.... :)

Bump!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4438432
Share on other sites

I'm 37 I remember both shows.

reason I asked - if he's mechanical enough to pull the door down then he can change the motor himself. its mainly 10mm bolts (lots of them) that have to be removed.

failing that - take it to nissan and let them do it. the motor is a Z33 item and door (although SLIGHTLY different shape) is a Z33 as well. expect a $500 bill (inc motor) for that. to tear one down and reassemble is 1.5 hrs roughly. (thats what it takes me.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4438513
Share on other sites

I'm 37 I remember both shows.

reason I asked - if he's mechanical enough to pull the door down then he can change the motor himself. its mainly 10mm bolts (lots of them) that have to be removed.

failing that - take it to nissan and let them do it. the motor is a Z33 item and door (although SLIGHTLY different shape) is a Z33 as well. expect a $500 bill (inc motor) for that. to tear one down and reassemble is 1.5 hrs roughly. (thats what it takes me.)

yeah...I knew that you knew that I knew that too! :) ...er....yeah!

Though with the current exchange rate, Bionic Man is prolly 7 and a half buh..and the door motor about 6 mill. :P

Good advice mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4438633
Share on other sites

someone is proud of their product. they are not that expensive. last one I bought new was $350 locally.

nidn you since its tore down I would also do the regulator as well. saves tearing it down again. the reg is the worst part of it.

give me a chassis number to work with and I'll pull a part number for you. there is a revison on that motor as well. looks like they fixed what broke in them.

Edited by Chris Rogers
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4439124
Share on other sites

Thanks guys! and Chris specially!

i got told yesterday, before i go purchase a new one, to open it up and clean out the surroundings of the buttons....anyhow will let you all know how i go.... if it doesnt work, i will just go to NISSAN and get a new motor...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4439425
Share on other sites

I tried "reconditioning" mine first but I think the problem with them is something else. After cleaning it up it would work going down but didn't have enough strength to close the window. Just put in a newy, it's a new part number so hopefully you won't have the same problem.

1.5 hours is reasonable I think if you stay focussed. 4 hours? you must of had a few beer brakes

Edited by Blitz_boy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4440461
Share on other sites

someone post a shot of the inner door and I'll do a point and explain.

stephen,

never looked at the FSM for this thing. I dare say its 4 hrs from dry though. (to do a doot lock actuator does take longer - thats a BITCH to do!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4441336
Share on other sites

Oh, yes maybe I was thinking door lock actuators... not window winder.

Anyway, I still take my time, hate doing things twice, bescause I didn't locktite something, or adjust it, clean or polish it.

As for Beer "Brake" (sic), nope never during... just a Bourbon as I finish the job.

So Chris, the first one you did would be 4 hrs would it? It is just you have experience now though!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4445382
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Guys.

Ever had a problem with the windows moving while driving at high speeds (110kmh+)

My windows shift up and down when go over a bump or past a road train. The "open doors light" comes on aswell as the door lights and interior light.

Any ideas?

I think i might be to do with some sensor thats a bit touchy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257981-window-problem/#findComment-4467957
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...