Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

I have a major problem here, there is oil coming out of my SSQV's. It only started happening recently about 2 weeks ago. I dont have a catch can and the original piping is still inplace meaning that the pressure from the cam covers still goes into the intake.

The car is a 1992 GTR with about 130 XXXkm's on it, it has been modified with 2860 -5, power fc D-jetro, Sard 700cc, Bosch 040, N1 oil pump. The parts have only recently been put on around 110 XXXkm's.

Does anyone have an idea as to way this is happening?

I have come up with a few idea's of my own which are: oil pumps pressure release valve is stuck, blown a cylinder or blown a seal on the intake side of one of my turbos.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259247-rb26dett-blowing-oil-through-ssqvs/
Share on other sites

i have some oil marks on the trumpets of my atmo bov

been there since i bought the car and hasnt caused any problems.

id guess its just excess oil finding the closest way out. ive been told a catch can can fix the problem.

i had a catch can recirculating into the intake for about a year, just pulled all my intake piping off and intercooler to find it all lathed in oil.

Cleaned them all up and bam car feels great, clean pipes and intercooler really make a difference to intake temps.

So i have removed the hose from the catch can to the intake and its just venting into the atmo which is illegal but the way ive done it looks like its going into the sump.

Well the oil that is coming out is being sprayed onto the front of the front bumber and down the side of the front bumber.

The thing that worries me is that there was no oil coming out when i put the SSQV's on in the first place but after some time it just started to blow oil.

Edited by gucio

Well it probably wouldnt be the pressure release valve in the pump, otherwise youd have huge oil pressure and wouldve popped an oil seal in the engine out by now.

Were the -5s new? If in bad condition could be the seals like you said, but probably not.

Check the pipe that goes from the P/S rocker cover to the intake pipe, see how much oils in there. If theres heaps, could be a ringland or something.

Check compression.

Typical scenario with old-modified RBs :D

Aside from what others have said....it also depends on how hard you were pushing the car....street or track. The first time I went to Sandown in the R without a catch can I had oil leaving the BOVs and spitting onto my front right tyre....not great for grip :D Fitted a catch can, cleaned the intake and the oil never reappeared.

mate i had the same problem before my motor gave way would love to know what the problem is to!!!

also i have twin HKS SSQ's to mine was spraying on to the back of my front bar then drips man i would suggest to take it to someone asap man my oil pump was f*ked or something not 100% man

Edited by _K1NGTR_

Fit a catch can, a temp home made one or an ebay special that doesn't vent back to intake and it will tell you one way or the other if its turbos or not.

If the oil stops coming out the BOV's and the can fills up then its coming out the breathers. Vice-versa and its the turbos.

I also noticed my catch an would fill up when driving hard. With the rb's issue with oil pooling in the head and the cam covers sitting on an angle, every time you corner hard around a right hander it must just spew it out very quickly.

Femno - the turbo's are brand new also will do a comp test when i get home, i hope its not a ring land :)

Ant97GTR - Well it started happening after a run at the drags, luckly i am not getting oil on the tire as yet

K1ngtr - the oil pump is brand new

fatgts-r - yeah just brought a catch can will be fitting it when i get home, i hope this tells me where to start looking.

I was also thinking of fitting the trust oil restrictor (the one that sits in the head) what do you guys think? will this help my situation?

just take it somewhere man i left it and my motor went... cuz the oil leaked out slowly and caused major damage as long as you know the problem check your oil levels and do something aobut it you should be fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done.  
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
×
×
  • Create New...