Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah. last thing you need is a bloke 100000kms away slaging your shit after hes paid good money and the f**ker locks up when its all tensioned down..

shane.. so your countersunk holes are oval? what about when its tightened? wont it centre itself being a taper?

That and relying on someone else to line bore it properly are my my greatest concerns lol

i dont actually use tapered bolts, i use a proper cap headed bolt. And for the 5 8mm bolts on the diff side that u need to tap the block for, i use a special half headed bolt so it leaves enough meat in the plate when its countersunk.

I decided not to use a tapered head bolt as a normal square headed bolt has a greater and more even surface to clamp down with.

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sorry Shane, I'm really not trying to rain on your parade but your going through the exact same issues I had to sort out years ago.

Are you using countersunk capscrews to hold the outer perimeter of the cradle to the rails?

Best thing you can do is build a motor with your design, address each and every problem as you get to them (there are still many more to come, trust me), run the motor at at least 1300-1400hp/10,000rpm to test it all, after 12 months or so and possibly several revisions/changes, you may have it sorted out and to a point you'll be able to sell them to the type of customer who can justify going to a full billet cradle in the first place.

Unless its proven in very high hp, high rpm motors your very target market possibly won't want to use it.

Many times over the years, I've been told my ideas won't work or arn't right but I never gave up and I tested everything myself so it was only my money I wasted if it all turned to shyte so keep going and best of luck to you with this and any other of your ideas,

Rob

Sorry Shane, I'm really not trying to rain on your parade but your going through the exact same issues I had to sort out years ago.

Are you using countersunk capscrews to hold the outer perimeter of the cradle to the rails?

Best thing you can do is build a motor with your design, address each and every problem as you get to them (there are still many more to come, trust me), run the motor at at least 1300-1400hp/10,000rpm to test it all, after 12 months or so and possibly several revisions/changes, you may have it sorted out and to a point you'll be able to sell them to the type of customer who can justify going to a full billet cradle in the first place.

Unless its proven in very high hp, high rpm motors your very target market possibly won't want to use it.

Many times over the years, I've been told my ideas won't work or arn't right but I never gave up and I tested everything myself so it was only my money I wasted if it all turned to shyte so keep going and best of luck to you with this and any other of your ideas,

Rob

Dont worry rob i really do appreciate your pointers as you have been building these things for years and have great results, clearly shows ur a wealth of knowledge.

U prolly didnt see my post just before, but im using a convential cap head bolt, not a tapered bolt. I can see the issues ud have if u used a tapered head bolt though.

Yeh i was going to wait and test it on my own car but its getting some chassis work done atm so it wont be ready to use for sometime, also i'm working with a workshop who have cars available to test on and if testing goes to plan a drag car to test on half way through the year.

I do see issues already like how are we going to overcome differences in thermal expansion (most likely by running non-std clearances), line boring with the 2 different metals and many more, but like u said thats what the testing is there for!

Thanks for the help so far, i really do appreciate it :P

  • 2 months later...

Hi all,

I've had quite a few people after kits. We're currently out of stock until at least the first week of June.

smorcr, I doubt anyone will give you the cad files to have one cut. Being in NZ, why don't you get one from RIPS?

Hi all,

I've had quite a few people after kits. We're currently out of stock until at least the first week of June.

smorcr, I doubt anyone will give you the cad files to have one cut. Being in NZ, why don't you get one from RIPS?

good luck with that 1 hey greg

:P

Hi all,

I've had quite a few people after kits. We're currently out of stock until at least the first week of June.

smorcr, I doubt anyone will give you the cad files to have one cut. Being in NZ, why don't you get one from RIPS?

I should have posted this 2 weeks ago. A couple of minutes after typing the post above, 16 plates arrived from the laser cutter. They will be machined Monday and back in stock. I'll take some video of the CNC process, it's pretty cool to watch if anyone is interested.

HEY rob in in auckland and would like to know more about your kits can you email me a price and what comes in this kit plz send pics to and if theres more than 1 opp then show me my opps and prices EMAIL me [email protected]

Most of the info you're after is on his website, proengines.com.au - have a look and email him.

I've just used a pro-engines plate, the quality is excellent.

with a bit of work the guys at hills motorsports have retained the internal oil pump pickup too.

Good to hear Duncan, was Mark happy with it?

  • 7 months later...

Sorry for digging up an old thread!

I have a Trust Sump extension and was wondering are the proengines/shane/rips etc internal pickups made for the stock sump?

or are they custom made each order to suit?

I know a GTR in UK has modified a proengines pickup with the Trust pickup however i was wondering is there a bolt on option

We can supply them with a semi finished pickup that needs to be cut to length to suit the depth of the sump. It's a fairly simple job but you need someone who can tig weld to weld it together once you have the length right.

  • 2 weeks later...
Good to hear Duncan, was Mark happy with it?

yep, mostly because it was complete and spot on :thumbsup: there might be cheaper options for basic cost, but this was a straight fit, no stuffing around option which is exactly what any workshop wants.

no point saving $100 and then having the workshop spend 4-8 hours modifying things to fit at $80-100/hr

We ended up using the standard pickup so it is about 1cm higher than normal - as a result I run a little more oil. We could have extended it as suggested but this is just a roady and it wasn't worth the trouble.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...