Jump to content
SAU Community

Hi-flowing A R33 Turbo Vs R34 Turbo

SS8_Gohan

By SS8_Gohan,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

just wanted to pick some brains here as i've only found out this rather crucial difference. The R34 rear housing on the stock turbo is larger than the R33 rear housing. Which got me thinking, would an R34 hi-flowed turbo be better than a R33 hi-flow or would the difference be negligible?

I recently got a hi-flow but at the time didn't think there was a difference between the 33 and 34, and the rear housing used was a R33. My R34 turbo is fine (after finding the leak in the FMIC piping) and wasn't used to make the hi-flow.

I see potential in the hi-flow i've got at the moment, and it's a new one that hasn't been tried before (with the bugs that go along with it, still being worked out) but wondering whether i should switch to a R34 rear housing? Obviously i won't bother if the difference isn't going to be worth the hassle. I'm not sure if it's easy/hard to just switch the rear housing around.

Keen on your thoughts :D

cheers,

daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259549-hi-flowing-a-r33-turbo-vs-r34-turbo/
Share on other sites
femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

Big difference! Thats why 34 turbos are so popular...everyone hi-flows them for their 33s to make decent power.

Depends what you want...good midrange or good top end. Obviously the 33 housing will run out of puff sooner than the 34, but the 34 will be slightly laggier.

If your hi-flow turbo has a larger rear wheel you cant just swap housings, the 34 housing will probably need to be machined to suit.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

I would think that the hiflow'd 33 turbo would have had the exhaust housing machined for a larger wheel so swapping on the stock neo exhaust housing isn't going to fit...

I have a hiflow'd neo turbo on my stag and it seems to be a bit bigger than all the other hiflows I've read about, it's making ~240awkw @ 12psi when the others I've seen make 240-260rwkw @ 16-18psi..

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Its not a big difference - unless you call big "10-15rwkw" because thats about all it is between the two housings.

Considering your going from 190-200rwkw to around 250rwkw (R33) or 260/265rwkw (R34)... you really wouldnt notice a BIG difference.

You'd see it more on a dyno sheet than actual driving :bunny:

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
Its not a big difference - unless you call big "10-15rwkw" because thats about all it is between the two housings.

Considering your going from 190-200rwkw to around 250rwkw (R33) or 260/265rwkw (R34)... you really wouldnt notice a BIG difference.

You'd see it more on a dyno sheet than actual driving :bunny:

fixed :)

street car you would be wanting the response?

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well, how big of a response difference are we talking about?

because the one i have in there at the moment is practically the stock response, the graphs on a hub dyno are very similar, so i could probably trade a bit off down low because the hi-flow i have at the moment is hardly noticable in terms of difference to response.

would i have to "run in" the turbo again if i changed the rear housings over?

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted

I have a high flow with a vg30 rear housing (im pretty sure its the same size as the r34 housing) i hit 16-17psi at about 4000rpm.

The main reason for a bigger rear housing is so it can flow more exhaust gas's, to take full advantage you probably need to make a high flow to suit, with the bigger rear housing you could run a bigger compressor with out it choking the exhaust housing and causing a restriction, atm im making about 210rwkw on a hub dyno (before it was tuned on a hub dyno i was making 223 on a normal dyno with standard ecu so im guessing hub dyno's read less) but i am also running the afm at 110% and have seen 100% duty cycle on the pfc hand controller.

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
well, how big of a response difference are we talking about?

because the one i have in there at the moment is practically the stock response, the graphs on a hub dyno are very similar, so i could probably trade a bit off down low because the hi-flow i have at the moment is hardly noticable in terms of difference to response.

would i have to "run in" the turbo again if i changed the rear housings over?

bass junky had a 34GCG highflow with poncams, do a search for a graph? think ~260rwkw IIRC

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
fixed :rofl:

street car you would be wanting the response?

whops :D

edited!

But the difference is minimal, its a few KW and a few RPM, both of which over 6000rpm you wont notice a lot

For the cost of pulling it off, putting on a R34 rear - totally not justified in my book

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

I had an r33 hi-flow got it tuned and made 250ish rwkw. Got fed up of the compressor surge and upgrade to the larger VG30/R34 rear housing and made 274rwkw. Still had the compressor surge issue and sold the turbo to a friend (who loved the sound) and the turbo was fitted to his std rb25neo and made exactly the same power, on the same dyno, as my 33 did with poncams and porting.

The increase is more like 20rwkw.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

R33's rear is more like a .48, R34's is in .56, and VG30's in .63 which is the biggest one.

There will be power gain with bigger turbine housings. specially with .63 rear we can high flow it to 500HP. with .48 and .56 the main issues is back pressure. There are few ways to minimize it trade of with response. 250rwkws is about the max they can do.

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
R33's rear is more like a .48, R34's is in .56, and VG30's in .63 which is the biggest one.

There will be power gain with bigger turbine housings. specially with .63 rear we can high flow it to 500HP. with .48 and .56 the main issues is back pressure. There are few ways to minimize it trade of with response. 250rwkws is about the max they can do.

isnt a standard 33 .6 and a vg30 .8?

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
Was that a GCG one or not?

Every hi-flow is different, and if yours was surging that's because of the wheel selection.

It depends as much on the wheels used as the turbo housing to start

Mine was known as a sierra-sierra combination, apart from that i have no real idea what was done to it, before i purchased it second hand, as a r33 std hi-flow. I know GCG no longer made this combination, with the bearing centers, due to the compressor surge issue.

I agree with the regarding wheel size, the problem was that the compressor wheel was too big for the housing. By going a bigger exhaust housing i was trying to keep the factory looking turbo, but moving the flow a little higher in the rev range, where the engine may use the extra gasses.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
R33's rear is more like a .48, R34's is in .56, and VG30's in .63 which is the biggest one.

There will be power gain with bigger turbine housings. specially with .63 rear we can high flow it to 500HP. with .48 and .56 the main issues is back pressure. There are few ways to minimize it trade of with response. 250rwkws is about the max they can do.

The R34 GTT had two different exhaust housings, one was identical to the VG30.

I have seen this on my mate's (bassjunkie) 34, when he purchased a VG30 housing for his hi-flow, only to find the housings where identical, with the same casting numbers, etc.

isnt a standard 33 .6 and a vg30 .8?
:D
hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted (edited)

In some earlier high flows people were using T04E 71mm 16 fins 59 trim wheel with a To4E 74 Trim turbine wheel. That creates very high manifold pressure on the turbine side which forces the shaft towards the comp housing. Doesn’t take long to wear out the thrust washer so the comp wheels hit its housing then twist the shaft looks like some thing fail into the turbo.

Edited by hypergear
SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok guys, i have a dead R33 turbo here and i've got my R34 turbo from my car....

The r33 rear housing has "2IU" embossed on it, and my R34 rear housing has "OP6" embossed on it... does that give me any size indications at all?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
ok guys, i have a dead R33 turbo here and i've got my R34 turbo from my car....

The r33 rear housing has "2IU" embossed on it, and my R34 rear housing has "OP6" embossed on it... does that give me any size indications at all?

… we've already told you.

R34 - slightly bigger

That’s it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Predator1
      Tomei gasket

      By Predator1 · Posted

      Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...