Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The Z445 is made by Ryco. IMO if you want a good filter, buy the Nissan OEM. With regards to engine oil, it's all debateable which is best, but as long as you change it often you should be fine...and it's probably not good to be constantly switching between synthetic and mineral, but changing over from one to the other a few times in the car's lifetime shouldn't make any discernable difference.

"Sludging" occurs when engine oil breaks down, usually because it's been left in the engine for too long, it's not really a chemical reaction that occurs when you mix oil types or viscoscities, though mixing oil is never the best idea. I think the factory specification for the VQ is somewhere along the lines of 5w30, which is quite thin. Most people with opt for a 5w40 or a 10w40 and go for a full synthetic.

Thanks alot it's appreciated,

Cheers Richard

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think every 10,000km if you are using Fully syn oil,Like Mobil 1, Royal purple, Motul or even Amsoil.

6000km for a Semi syn or Mineral oil. I think Nissan use Mineral oil on our cars.

There's a sticker on my bonnet that was translated from Jap says change oil and oil filter every 12,000km. I always been using only fully Syn Oil. And the old oil still looked good after 12,000km. I don't drive hard much and usually travel 80kmh or more.

i think every 10,000km if you are using Fully syn oil,Like Mobil 1, Royal purple, Motul or even Amsoil.

6000km for a Semi syn or Mineral oil. I think Nissan use Mineral oil on our cars.

There's a sticker on my bonnet that was translated from Jap says change oil and oil filter every 12,000km. I always been using only fully Syn Oil. And the old oil still looked good after 12,000km. I don't drive hard much and usually travel 80kmh or more.

GAH! I had a ryco filter on my old S14 that leaked last year!

I ended up just tightening it until it stopped - coulda got $100 :domokun:

LOL!!! They did make me send them the filter so that they could check it was the filter. Hahahah! Good one.

  • 2 years later...

bit of a thread dig here, but I searched ebay for the K&N filter, part number HP-1008 - and the few results that turned up wanted like $60!!! I think these filters fit R35 GT-R's so they're asking GT-R prices.

FYI - I went on amazon.com and got the HP-1008 for $10. Ordered 3 of them, incl postage from the US for $44.

performancelub.com has them oretty cheap. Harold is around the corner from you as well.

Lots of it. Excellent prices as well. just jump on the website.

+1 Harold of PerformanceLub.com, great prices and selection of oils too! Got AMSoil 10w40 off him and I like it, will be trying German Castrol in the future as well. I'm curious about experiences with Martini Racing, Liquid-Moly and Elf oils, if anyone has used them before.

Edited by 81gSKy
  • 1 month later...

250GT uses Z547.

Its about 1/3 bigger than Z445, not sure if they are interchangeable?

They are. My 350gt had one of these on it when I bought it. Same thread, same diameter, about 20mm longer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...