Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've decide to go big HP, so out with the current and in with the new. I'm putting a RB 25det into my C210 coupe, so now I'm selling my L28. This was a crate motor from Nismo about 10 years ago. It was freshened about 20,000 ks ago and I have paper work .

From Nismo it came with:

The motor is N42 on N42

Bored to 3.0L

East bear triple weber inlet manifold ( japanese)

East bear tuned length extractors " " "

Triple 45 webers made in Italy ( matching set DCOE)

Motor is in great condition and has good performance.

If need be I can put you in touch with the original owner /importer.

It's a shame most of you on this site are out of W.A but anyone local and interested is welcome to test at your convenience. Looking for about $3200 post-44326-1237038807_thumb.jpgpost-44326-1237038761_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261118-decided-to-go-big-hp/
Share on other sites

you sure you want to go to a rb25???????

you can still get truckloads of power from a L28, seriously how much power are you after, and will you be able to use it too!

the L series is plenty capable of putting out 300rwkw and torque to match, plus its kinda retro and cool, as hardly anyone in oz does it!

but one factor does come into it, cost.

it is far cheaper to get the power etc out of a RB than an L series... i could get a 200kw 20det package for under 2 grand installed... but im not gunna as then there will be engineering bulshaet to sort out as im moving state like every few years

good luck with selling up, i know it would be sweet addition to anyones vehicle... maybe sign up to viczcar as they do a fair bit of stuff like that

Mag86 I hear what your saying , but to get 300rwkw you'd be talking 3.1 stroker using the LD28 crank probably and they alone are fairly big bucks along with all the other performance parts for L series.I should have got in at the right time and bought up big from the states..I've thought about turbo L28 but again lots of changes to my motor ie: lowering compression, maybe change heads. I've seen some get up and go ones on YOU TUBE. What i do like about the RB 25 changeover is the power and driveability. I could drive this to work on a daily basis, meaning one less car to pay out for yearly. Bottom line is if I don't get an offer of at least $3000 I won't sell it. Instead I'll spend money and get the much needed LSD. I forgot to mention the motor will come with 2 x5 speed boxes. The one in the car and a spare.

Mag86 I hear what your saying , but to get 300rwkw you'd be talking 3.1 stroker using the LD28 crank probably and they alone are fairly big bucks along with all the other performance parts for L series.I should have got in at the right time and bought up big from the states..I've thought about turbo L28 but again lots of changes to my motor ie: lowering compression, maybe change heads. I've seen some get up and go ones on YOU TUBE. What i do like about the RB 25 changeover is the power and driveability. I could drive this to work on a daily basis, meaning one less car to pay out for yearly. Bottom line is if I don't get an offer of at least $3000 I won't sell it. Instead I'll spend money and get the much needed LSD. I forgot to mention the motor will come with 2 x5 speed boxes. The one in the car and a spare.

Why are you guys all DREAMING?????

HP isn't the answer totally on it's own you know.

How would you like 380ft/lb of torque @ 4500 on less than 8.5psi of boost?????????

Cheers, D

How would you like 380ft/lb of torque @ 4500 on less than 8.5psi of boost?????????

Cheers, D

I must say, turboing my N/A L24 has made a huge difference, it has a lot more torque, (above 1800 RPM)

it throws you back into the seats when you stick it into it,

the only down side is that, I need to be so much more careful in the wet, I can easily break tracking in 3rd, and that's a bit scary when you not expecting it (at 110Kmh)

Nigel

Edited by noddle
sounds like fun!

I Had my son in with me, we were still tuning Megasquirt when this happened the first time, it gave me a big scare, I don't think my son was very impressed..

but I must say, I love the power now, comparing the power from the FI and turbo to my other 240K, it's a huge difference.

I now need to pull my finger out and build my L28 I have waiting.

Nigel

It's a N/A L28, but when I do it, It will be fitted with a turbo. I need to look into getting dished pistons for it

Nigel

Why do you want to dished pistons?. Flattops Have a better flame front.. Higher compression isnt a problem. Its all the the tune..

Btw, you dont need a 3.1L to make 300rwkw.. You can do 300rwkw on a Stock n42/n42 combo l28... You dont need the cubes for the power in the L Serries..

Why do you want to dished pistons?. Flattops Have a better flame front.. Higher compression isnt a problem. Its all the the tune..

Btw, you dont need a 3.1L to make 300rwkw.. You can do 300rwkw on a Stock n42/n42 combo l28... You dont need the cubes for the power in the L Serries..

mmmm 300 rwkw you say out of an L28. Please exlpain, in detail as I'd like to know how without putting the LD28 in and so forth. Are we talking big PSI turbo or just a performance built carburettored L28. Would seriously like to knpw the formula for this kind of HP.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...