Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been driving a few GTR's in my test driving experience, and have been driving a turbo car for a few years now..

And what's the deal with BOV's?

It seems like every guy out there with something to prove has one. The only instance I agree with a BOV is if you drive a very unsual turbo car like a mazda familia or something similar, where the BOV tells people 'Hey I have turbo on this peice of crap'.

Every skyline I have driven fitted with a BOV has been lame.

Every silvia that drives past me with a BOV has been lame, and I have promptly eaten them with my bovless car.

I think it's a gimick that was only cool back when imports where an unusual site on the road, and the bov noise has absolutely no mechanical merit whatsoever.

Your thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26124-bovs-cool-or-not-cool/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Well, I think there needs to be clarification here.

Most turbo cars already have a factory BOV.

e.g. My WRX and my R33 GTST.

I think you are refering to after market BOV's that vent to atmosphere instead of being redirected in to the system.

And for the record, I do agree that those BOV's that vent to atmosphere are pretty much "wank bits".

Poll: Should people be able to post lame polls?

All your 'test driving experience' and you dont know what a BOV does?

I think perhaps you should find out what a bov does, and the fact that it is necessary, and the fact that factory ones fail, and the fact that an adjustable aftermarket one is necessary when you run BIG boost, and the fact that a good aftermarket part will perform better than a stock one, and the fact that even with a stock bov when you put a pod on a car you can hear it quite loudly.

And, who gives a rats arse if anybody thinks they are wank - do you buy a set of wheels for a car because other people think you should buy them.

If you do a mod to a car, do it because you want to, not because someone else tells you that you should - or should not.

I have a trust type R bov, plumbed back (to avoid defects). The plumbing is stainless pipe, the pod is enclosed in an aluminium box - and you can still hear it.

Do yourself a favour. Drive a car with a stock bov and light mods (exhaust, cooler, boost, pod, ecu) - then drive the same car with a properly adjusted aftermarket bov THEN tell me you dont know whether or not they should be fitted. Even with exhuast and pod a decent, properly adjusted bov will make an appreciable difference to lag between gear changes.

:) to steve..

I think aftermarket BOV are pointless to most mildly tuned cars out there. If i was running a proper turbo I guess i'd do one, you can feel the difference between gears like Steve is saying above. 90% of BOV's are just installed for "cool" factor however if you ask me.

To be honest.. I'll admit they are kinda cool, as long as they're not some dick just sitting there PSHT'ing off just to show "oh look i've got a turbo". Hearing a heavily worked car scream on boost with a nice BOV is a pretty nice sound though i reckon. It feels good too.

Member of BOVA - "Blowoff Valves Anonymous" :D

but how mad does it sound wen u rev ur car up and then u hear this "PSSSSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT" sound and then everyone just turns around and looks and ur like, thats right u mofo's, stick that up ur ass! cmon, dont deny it, u love it.

and how shit does it sound wen ur cruisin down the rocks and u got ur system pumpin but all the street can hear is the rattling of ur boot and number plate!

It totally depends on the function vs noise factor. The majority of BOVs I hear hit top volume when the sik one behind the wheel revs it to 2000RPM and shifts up - basically having a BOV for the sake of having a BOV. Hence I voted for "lame", because the poll's wording as such is whether or not they are "cool". However, a subtle atmo BOV which vents air without making a racket when you're up it, or a plumb-back BOV, will have a performance gain if the rest of the car is modified.

At the moment I'm not sure if my car's even running one... will have to check :P

I like my BOV.... my Neon's, my sticker's, my boost guages, my stock everything else.....

CAUSE IT'S MY CAR.....

You should have heard the crap i got when i told people i was fitting Neon's....

now heap's of people say they really like them....

Go figure....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...