Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

I was quite chuffed when they turned up. he's been saying that for weeks and then I get a text msg saying be there in an hour.. the contra deal I like as well. I have to fix a cube for him and tats it. he's got the bits for it..

sold my wheels this afternoon.

will need the funds to fix a few little things around the car

also gotta find out why my brake lights decided to stay on after I turned the car off this afternoon.....

[Watch your backs ladys. Import driving dangerous hoons will no doubt get the blame for the road carnage of the last couple of days.

There will be a crackdown fo sho.

It shits me to tears how the 5-0 are allowed to profile us based on our cars. I drive my car sensibly on the road and it's in great shape mechanically yet I'll get picked on while the flat capper doing 110 through school zones driving a busted falcadore with more problems than k's on the clock will be left alone.

*rant over*

Morning boys and girls, late start at work today makes me happy in my pants!

Morning Mangs,

also gotta find out why my brake lights decided to stay on after I turned the car off this afternoon.....

When mine did that, it was the bit of plastic/rubber on the brake pedal that pushes the brake switch... it had disintegrated, so there was nothing to push on the switch and turn the brake lights off.

sold my wheels this afternoon.

will need the funds to fix a few little things around the car

also gotta find out why my brake lights decided to stay on after I turned the car off this afternoon.....

rubber stop on the brake pedal is stuffed. had that with a few jap cars now.

Computer just shat its self completely. Going to take it to be looked at on Tuesday (one of the downsides to owning a Mac) but I'm going to guess that it's probably not worth repairing.

Time to start looking for a new system I guess.

Computer just shat its self completely. Going to take it to be looked at on Tuesday (one of the downsides to owning a Mac) but I'm going to guess that it's probably not worth repairing.

Time to start looking for a new system I guess.

Buy parts from Msy/Umart and build it yourself, can get a good Pc for 800 bucks.

hi guys.

The little rubber is between the brake pedal and the brake light switch.

what is the location of said switch?

had a quick look with the car parked in the garage, but couldn't really see much as the car is tiny and I dont manouver well in there

will pull the car out to give me a bit more space and have a look shortly. just packing the kids up for Marisa to take them out for the day. yay, free time!!

At the top of the brake pedal mang

its a bitch to get to

magical

luckily I am small and nimble, so should have no trouble with hard to reach places

the clutch has one as well. a small flat tooped bolt will fix it. both of mine were perished from old age.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...