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Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


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I was quite chuffed when they turned up. he's been saying that for weeks and then I get a text msg saying be there in an hour.. the contra deal I like as well. I have to fix a cube for him and tats it. he's got the bits for it..

sold my wheels this afternoon.

will need the funds to fix a few little things around the car

also gotta find out why my brake lights decided to stay on after I turned the car off this afternoon.....

[Watch your backs ladys. Import driving dangerous hoons will no doubt get the blame for the road carnage of the last couple of days.

There will be a crackdown fo sho.

It shits me to tears how the 5-0 are allowed to profile us based on our cars. I drive my car sensibly on the road and it's in great shape mechanically yet I'll get picked on while the flat capper doing 110 through school zones driving a busted falcadore with more problems than k's on the clock will be left alone.

*rant over*

Morning boys and girls, late start at work today makes me happy in my pants!

Morning Mangs,

also gotta find out why my brake lights decided to stay on after I turned the car off this afternoon.....

When mine did that, it was the bit of plastic/rubber on the brake pedal that pushes the brake switch... it had disintegrated, so there was nothing to push on the switch and turn the brake lights off.

sold my wheels this afternoon.

will need the funds to fix a few little things around the car

also gotta find out why my brake lights decided to stay on after I turned the car off this afternoon.....

rubber stop on the brake pedal is stuffed. had that with a few jap cars now.

Computer just shat its self completely. Going to take it to be looked at on Tuesday (one of the downsides to owning a Mac) but I'm going to guess that it's probably not worth repairing.

Time to start looking for a new system I guess.

Computer just shat its self completely. Going to take it to be looked at on Tuesday (one of the downsides to owning a Mac) but I'm going to guess that it's probably not worth repairing.

Time to start looking for a new system I guess.

Buy parts from Msy/Umart and build it yourself, can get a good Pc for 800 bucks.

hi guys.

The little rubber is between the brake pedal and the brake light switch.

what is the location of said switch?

had a quick look with the car parked in the garage, but couldn't really see much as the car is tiny and I dont manouver well in there

will pull the car out to give me a bit more space and have a look shortly. just packing the kids up for Marisa to take them out for the day. yay, free time!!

At the top of the brake pedal mang

its a bitch to get to

magical

luckily I am small and nimble, so should have no trouble with hard to reach places

the clutch has one as well. a small flat tooped bolt will fix it. both of mine were perished from old age.

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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