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Im suprized no one has told you to run the hicas diagnostics, i carnt remember how to do it from memory but it was very simple, do a search for hicas diagnostics, its a trip, it does all this weird crap and the rear wheels turn left and right slightly and a code flashes up on the dash, the hicas light will flash the code exactly like the ecu diagnostic mode does. Im pretty sure that the car is suposed to be off the ground and level before running the test because the rear wheels turn left and right.

From memory i think i had to do the procedure a few times to do it right because if you dont turn the steering wheel to the right degrees left and right it wont register properly and wont put it into diagnostic mode.

Hope this helps ..

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thanx for he advise on diagnostics, looks like this doesnt work on alot of early model r33's im guessing the ones that experience this issue very often.... it would be good if hicas diagnostic could be done from the ecu tiself (turning the little knob)... otherwise stop trying the steering wheel method it doesnt work with ours

Hey as far as i know this test works on all R33's

I have an aftermarket steering wheel and i still got into it, but it took quite a few trys, here is a tip, go a little further when doing the steering wheel to the left and right at whateva the angle is ..

Sup guys,

New to forum and got a GTR a few days back, been reading up alot on the site about things and there is a great deal of interesting information.

To add to this thread, I'm have the same problem, but mine is because I have no speedo (assuming speedo cable is broken).

After a few k's the light come's on and the steering becomes heavy.

Working with plant machinery, I assume the power steering pump provides hydraulic pressure to the Hicas pump. Because the Hicas disables (for whatever reason) the solenoids in the Hicas system close off, adding a lot of pressure (and stress) to the power steering pump.

I wouldn't focus on the power steering pump for the cause of your problems, but it's merely a side effect of the Hicas system becoming disabled.

As some others have said, a new steering wheel could be causing the issue. For me it's no speed sensing. Not knowing all of the sensors the Hicas system uses, but assumingly steering, speed, and possibly individual wheel speed? (ABS sensors).

The diagnostic system (mentioned above) would provide the you with the cause of the problem. Being very new to it all, I haven't had the chance to double check if mine's what I think it is.. ..But yeah, I doubt 'the cause' is anything related to the power steering.

Cheers.

Diagnostic does not want to work for me at all. Mine is an early model. 1993. Those saying it doesn't work on the older models appear to be right, unless I'm doing something wrong but I've tried it about 10 times now. Contact cleaner on the plugs and sockets did not work, the earth straps in the rear look suspect, I will try those next.

  • 2 months later...

In relation to having trouble getting into the diagnostic mode, i have had trouble getting it activated as well.. Is it possible that the car being converted from automatic to manual would stop you from getting into diagnostic mode??? as there are 2 different procedures for auto and manual.

  • 2 weeks later...

I had the same problem in mine, so I installed a HICAS lockout bar.

Problem came back this afternoon (1 month later) so I removed the HICAS fuse from the boot.

Seems to be good again, fingers crossed it stays that way. :)

  • 1 month later...

Hi all,

I also had problems with my HICAS with the light coming on after start up but would go away when you turn ignition off then on again once car warmed up. This occurred around 6 months ago. In the last 2 month the HICAS light would suddenly come on during driving and the steering would go heavy. Any who, it ended up being the HICAS control module. I replaced a leaking capacitor and cleaned up all the corrosive liquid on the PCB. Car is a 93 R33 gts-t. Been a week with no issues as of yet. Hopefully I will never see the light come on agin.

Also, the diagnostics doesn't work on this first release R33. Must be firmware related.

Hope this helps..

Buy!!

does the HICAS in the R33's even use the PS pump? I just took one apart, and the HICAS was fully electric it seems. However in my 180sx, the HICAS was mechanical (used PS fluid). I locked my 180sx hicas and removed all the hicas junk, and looped the lines back together. HICAS is a PITA.

I would suggest just locking/removing the hicas! use this as a good excuse :cool:

  • 3 weeks later...

LOL, mine even work more funnier.... my light comes on everytime i turn off my car, i have a turbo timer in her and when the time i shutting her down the turbo timer seems like doesnt work in 0.5 sec and come back on...? i just scared if it stuff my turbo up.

don't know about the skylines, but my 180sx HICAS kicked in at 80kmh, no lower. funny cause it would snap to full (hicas) lock in one direction (it was stuffed) as soon as it "activated" so at 80kmh i got a nasty rear end wiggle.. then i had to drive like a crab... hence take that shit out.

  • 4 weeks later...

i am having the same prob as well.. i am driving a gtst 33 the car can just turn off when the hicas light is on and the steering wheel will be heavy.... any solution about this???

Edited by akajonz

All of you guys need to check your wiring, especially your main earths. That was the problem with mine. If your earth wire is secure, try adding another one somewhere on the chasis. A voltage drop will cause HICAS to cut out and sometimes power steering, I am not sure why but all other electrics work fine. Good luck.

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