Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm just not used to this level of tech.

I'd like to reset my ECU but am not 100%

on the location of the battery.

IE when i open the bonnet I'm pretty certain its the black boc where a bunch of fuses seem to be just behid the window washer container.

I'm assuming that I would just disconnect both the red terminals on the side closest to the engine and that would disconnect the battery?

Please pity and help the skyline noob :uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26203-just-bought-r33-wheres-my-battery/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

when you disconnect the battery, I would recommend you only take off the negative lead (black one with a "-" on the battery). I've heard that sometimes if you take the positive line off, and have bad connections somewhere in the car, then reconnect it it can blow fuses and even more important things like stereo, ECU, etc...

Just a suggestion, could be wrong...

I see the question "where's the battery?" and i think to myself.....

WHAT THE F^%K???????????

Mate....if you dont know where a battery is.....just give up now. Don't even bother attempting to drive that thing, coz it ain't for you.

There's your answer to where the battery is.

yeah that's harsh.

on another note, the battery in the back is a hinderance and i presume is only cos they couldn't fit it in the front. because the battery is in the back, you can't fold down the rear seats like in an S15 (or in pretty much any other given car) which really kills the ability to move anything large.

Originally posted by thes0pranos

I see the question "where's the battery?" and i think to myself.....

WHAT THE F^%K???????????

Mate....if you dont know where a battery is.....just give up now.  Don't even bother attempting to drive that thing, coz it ain't for you.  

There's your answer to where the battery is.

Hey dude,

unless u can honestly say u know of every nut and bolt in a skyline, dont go ard blasting others abt what they dont know.

Im pretty sure you wouldnt like such a reply if u posted a question abt sumthing u didnt know either.....

Originally posted by thes0pranos

I see the question "where's the battery?" and i think to myself.....

WHAT THE F^%K???????????

Mate....if you dont know where a battery is.....just give up now.  Don't even bother attempting to drive that thing, coz it ain't for you.  

There's your answer to where the battery is.

Don't be a tool, thanks for stopping by don't let the door hit your ass on the way out...

Well done Squizz, couldn't have said it better myself...

On another note:

The reason for only disconnecting the negative terminal is because if a spark does occur when you are reconnecting (due to some sort of fault discharge), the spark will occur on the ground side of devices (eg ecu), not on the positive.

This means that a discharge will flow from the device to a solid earth as opposed to a positive terminal disconnection where the fault occurs from the + terminal through the device.

Hope this makes sense, I read that somewhere...

Thanks for the info Baboon.

Not sure about any differences yet. After I first start my car is goes to about 1200rpm then settles itself down, even when hot outside. I think this is normal though.

I also notice that when the car is idling it seems to ossilate the revs till it finds a nice idle ie round 700rpm. Mostly the first time you stop at lights for eg.

I have noticed that I drove from Chermside (Northside Bris) to Lismore (NE NSW) on about 1/2 tank - I thought that was pretty good.

As far as i can tell the engine is in nice tune the engine is quiet, no leaks and the exhaust is a nice black. The car seems to rev out freely with no flat spots noticeable. Although I havent taken it to its limit yet - been wet in Bris lately I dont wanna kiss a telegraph pole...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...